Sumptuous Mont Blanc

A Mont Blanc recipe inspired by that of FT columnist and Cafe Anglais chef Rowley Leigh.

meringue (good quality store-bought ok)
200 gr double cream
best quality vanilla ice cream

chestnut puree
750 gr vacuum-packed chestnuts
75 light brown caster sugar
sugar
200 ml water
a split vanilla pod (or few drops of extract)

chocolate sauce
10 gr extra bitter chocolate (at least 75%)
150 ml milk
50 ml double cream

1. make chestnut puree by combining sugar and water in saucepan with vanilla and simmer for five minutes; add chestnuts, poach for 15-20 until tender, blend and pass through a sieve to cool
2. make the chocolate sauce by bringing the milk to a boil, then adding the chocolate and stirring off the heat; whisk in the cream and let cool
3. make some whipped cream by mixing until the double cream forms soft peaks
4. let ice cream soften 5-10 minutes
5. to assemble, drizzle some chocolate on plates; scoop some ice cream into each meringue; place chestnut puree in a mouli with a medium mesh, and extrude puree over meringue/ice cream; put a scoop cream on top

Turron Mousse

A simple but original dessert from Brindisa's head chef Jose Pizarro. Make sure you use best quality turron--suprema--and also the soft version which contains mainly almonds.

couple dozen golden raisins
4 tblsp sweet sherry
2 eggs, separated
4 tblsp double cream
150 gr soft turron blando

1. marinate raisins and sherry 24 hours, drain fruit and reserve sherry
2. use food processor to mix together egg yolks, cream, sherry and turron
3. beat egg whites until they form stiff peaks, fold into turron mixture
4. put a few raisins in the bottom of wine glasses, divide the mixture between the glasses and chill a minimum 6 hours

Curry Moules Musclade

A dish that got good reviews in the lead up to our Christmas dinner. Best to use just enough curry to give a subtle flavor, spruced up with a squeeze or two of lemon. Serve with some mouillettes.

small mussels

butter

chopped shallots

chopped garlic

parsley

chives

white wine

creme fraiche

lemon

ground pepper

best quality curry powder

1. saute shallots and garlic in butter until soft
2. add white wine, quantity depending on amount of mussels
3. cover pot and let cook about 5 minutes--give a shake at end to make sure all mussels have opened
4. drain mussels, save sauce and reduce in same pot
5. separate mussels from shells
6. when sauce has reduced to mere half cup, add creme fraiche, pepper and curry to taste
7. when sauce thickens add mussels, and heat another 1 minute or so, adding the herbs at the end, with a squeeze or two of lemon
8. serve in a small shallow bowl, pouring sauce and mussels over a couple mouillettes.

Pork Chops & Celery Apple Remoulade

Did this on the BBQ in Germany, luckily with some choice pork chops from our neighborly butcher shop/abattoir. We marinated the well-marbled chops 48 hours. The Dock gave me the idea for the refreshing, fat-cutting, accompanying remoulade, although I added the apples to lighten it up and because they are such a natural match for the pork. I also replaced the usual home-made mayo with sour cream to lighten the dish further. Good job on the BBQ pops.

best quality pork chops

EVOO

juice of a few lemons

fresh ground pepper

handful of fresh sage

handful of fresh thyme

several cloves of garlic, halved

remoulade

celeriac

green apples, peeled

mustard vinaigrette (using rice & white balsamic vinegar combo)

sour cream (or creme fraiche depending on taste)

chives

parsley

1. in a non-metallic bowl, marinate pork chops 48 hours in the ingredients listed; put enough EVOO and lemon juice in the bowl so that chops are covered half way
2. move around chops a few times during this process so that marinade is well distributed
3. pat dry and grill to your liking
4. serve with remoulade

Tonnarelli Trulli

A nice little concoction from the Puglian chef at Trulli restaurant in my parents' village.

pancetta

mushrooms

peas

canned marzano tomatoes

left over ragu

tonarelli pasta

EVOO

panna

butter

parmesan

1. saute mushrooms in EVOO and butter
2. add pancetta and peas; once pancetta on its way, add a few tblsp of tomatoes, then ragu and finally the panna to taste
3. boil and stir in pasta, serve with parmesan

Frisee & Red Endive Salad

The first time where frisee isn't the leading act in my salad bowl. Mixing some veal broth into the vinaigrette makes all the difference.

frisee, cut into two inch pieces
red endive, sliced into half-inch discs
fresh tarragon, mint, dill
S&P
maille mustard
cider vinegar
EVOO
veal broth (1 tblsp sufficient)

1. toss salads (equal quantities of each ) and (lots) of herbs in bowl
   
2. make vinaigrette using remaining ingredients (note that any home-made broth will do in place of the veal broth)
   

Osso Buco Bianco Spaghetti

A nice warming dish on the coldest night of the year so far....

2-3 garlic cloves
EVOO
leftover sauce from osso buco bianco recipe
spaghetti
S&P
parmesan

1. saute garlic cloves in EVOO
   
2. when scorched, heat up sauce, preferably from a couple days prior (or frozen)
3. boil pasta and drain, stir into pan, cook further 1-2 minutes
4. serve with parmesan, more S&P
   

Grilled Steak & Salsa Verde

Pops, let's do this one.........

8 fillet steaks

8 streaks of pancetta

l large bunch of thyme

1 clove of garlic

1 anchovy fillet

zest of 1 lemon

10 tblsp EVOO

8 portobello mushrooms

S&P

salsa verde

2 cloves garlic

handful of capers

handful of cornichons

6 anchovy fillets

2 large handfuls of parsley

1 handful of basil

1 handful of mint

1 tblsp maille mustard

3 tblsp red wine vinegar

8 tblsp EVOO

S&P

1. tie up stalk end of thyme, place leafy end in a pestle and mortar and give it a good bash (this removes the tasty leaves and leaves you with what looks like a mini broom)
2. add garlic, lemon zest, anchovy fillet to the mortar; bash to a paste and stir in EVOO
3. fillet steaks should be 1 inch thick, at least; wrap bacon around each steak and secure loosely with string
4. peel mushroom skins off (helps them absorb marinade); brush steaks and mushrooms with marinade, keeping the rest for the cooking
5. season meat on both sides with S&P, place on grill with mushrooms
6. turn every minute and brush each time with the thyme brush; the mushrooms will be cooked after about 6 minutes
7. once beef cooked to your liking, remove string, divide steaks between 8 warmed plates with mushrooms, allow to rest for 2 minutes and put a big dollop of salsa verde over the top

Tortellini Bolognese in Brodo

Wanted to make note of this one for the broth. The first time I use beef shin, combined with an old hen, simmered for 12 hours. Ideally capon could be used, but sets you back a pretty penny. The parcel fillings are "typical" Bolognese in that there is a combination of poultry and pork but more importantly the requisite mortadella. Although no nona will have the same recipe, naturally!

pork loin

turkey breast

mortadella

prosciutto

parmesan

nutmeg

butter

brodo

capon, or old hen

beef shin, half severed to expose marrow

bay leaf

handful of parsley

S&P

1. make tortellini using above filling, preferably with Italian eggs (or eggs that have an orange yolk)
2. when broth is done, season to taste with S&P
3. gently boil tortellini in salt water until nearly done, finish off in the broth by removing with a slotted spoon
4. serve with parmesan and drizzle of best quality EVOO and a bit more pepper, if you like

Rosemary Truffle Honey

Contemplating the week's work over a glass of Otonal at my local Galicia, I conjured up this mixture, which actually came out quite nicely. Probably better with hard cheese although went down a treat with the bosina.

acacia honey (Seggiano has a nice one)

fresh rosemary

white truffle oil (don't bother with black)

1. in a ramekin, pour 5-6 tblsp of honey
2. add a half tsp of finely minced rosemary needles
3. add a quarter tsp (or more if desired) truffle oil
4. mix all ingredients and let seep a few hours before using

Tonight's Dinner

A lovely cold winter night's Italian menu for the Letondots and Maurins. I was happy with the 12 hour tortellini broth made from an old hen and quality beef shin. Wrapping apples in San Daniele a good way forward. Also never forget when buying osso buco to lasso in the remaining shin to use in broth for the risotto Milanese. Particularly fond of this osso buco, an old River Cafe recipe that does away with the distracting tomatoes and makes use of anchovies to give the dish an added roundedness. Pleasant surprise was the rosemary-truffle honey.

bresaola bombs

san daniel wraps

home-made tortellini in brodo

osso buco bianco & risotto Milanese

frisee, tarragon, mint, dill salad

bosina & rosemary-truffle honey

Princi Salt Beef Salad

I've been having this at Princi's London outpost on Wardour Street. I asked them if this was a typical Milanese dish and apparently it is not. Whatever the origin, it's a nice way to lighten up a serving of salt beef. I've not put exact measurements, but each of the ingredients have approximately the same proportion.

salt beef, cut into quarter to half-inch cubes

dalleggio, cut into cubes same size as beef

pitted green olives, chopped

tiny capers, whole

cornichons, chopped

peas, boiled and cooled

artichokes in oil (without seasoning)

pickled mixed mushrooms (saw some small Japanese mushrooms)

best quality, sweet cherry tomatoes, quartered

EVOO, to taste

balsamic vinegar, just a couple drops

S&P

1. mix all together
2. dress with EVOO and vinegar, seasoning

Chipolatas & Mustard Mayo

Maybe because I was starving, but these hit the spot hard. I asked the kiwi cook at The Electric what he did, and I think this is what he said.

small best quality chipolatas links

worcestershire sauce

butter

home-made mayo & grain mustard mixed

1. saute sausages in pan
2. once they are browning, add a few tblsp of worcestershire sauce, then butter to taste to make a nice emulsified sauce
3. pour the whole lot into a small plate, place a small ramekin of the mustard mayo on the same plate

Tuna Tartare & Wasabi Ice Cream

I think this was one of the better dishes at last night's annual xmas dinner (see Bistro Ari & David Christmas Menus post). Mix at the table, just like steak tartare in a restaurant! I've tried many ways and must say that Nobu's recommendation to add just a bit of mashed garlic makes all the difference in perking up the otherwise blandish raw tuna. Could add some lime rind to the tartare, if you wish.

tuna

best quality EVOO

maldon sea salt

soy sauce

red chile, minced

coriander leaves, chopped

chives, chopped

shallots, minced

garlic, mashed with salt

wasabi ice cream

2 egg yolks

1 tsp sugar

250 ml creme fraiche

10 ml whole milk

S&P

1 tsp natural wasabi powder

1. make wasabi ice cream by first boiling milk and cream, season with S&P; meanwhile beat egg and sugar until it becomes white and doubles; slowly add hot milk and cream to egg mixture, then the wasabi, while mixing and let cool; put in ice cream maker; take out from freezer 10 minutes before serving so that ice cream softens a little.
2. cut tuna into small cubes, put in freezer 10 minutes before use
3. mix pureed garlic with EVOO
4. place tuna in a bowl, set on ice in another bowl, and add all condiments to taste; stir thoroughly
5. fill a glass with 2-3 spoonfuls of tuna, followed by a spoonful of ice cream and serve (ice cream should not be runny)

Poulet Harissa Mayonnaise

A take on the traditional poulet roti mayonnaise, the only difference is that we add some harissa to the home-made mayo. Could even be a good quality French or Spanish commercial mayo. If you don't have left-over chicken, some good quality roast chicken slices (thick) works just fine. This with a little green salad, coriander leaves and a mustardy vinaigrette and maybe some pain poilane?

left over roast chicken

harissa (only one brand will do--will confirm)

home-made mayo (with Italian eggs)

1. mix 1 part harissa, 2 parts may (even 1 to 1 if you want it lighter and spicier)
2. put a small ramekin on your plate with chicken, salad, bread etc.

Prosciutto Cotto & Pesto

I made a very nice pesto with some aged pecorino the other day. I cannot believe how tasty pesto and top quality ham is together. Prosciutto has to be cotto.

prosciutto cotto (or Jambon de Paris)

pesto

1. smear pesto on slice of prosciutto
2. roll up, slice into one inch rounds, skewer with toothpicks

Jambon & Fromage Frais

Something I had at a cocktail chez les Penots last night. According to the hostess, these were the ingredients.

best quality jambon de paris

fromage frais

cornichons, chopped

chives

S&P

1. mix everything together and smear on a slice of ham
2. roll up, slice into one inch rounds, skewer with toothpicks

Zabaione Felice

Michelle's delicious zabaione, inspired by Rome's Felice Trattoria and according to Gambero Rosso voted 6th best tiramisu in Italy! But it's not a tiramisu. It's really important to do it with Italian eggs that have the same yolk color as the Blogger logo.

Zabaione

2 egg yolks

2 tbsp fine caster sugar

vanilla extract

1/3 cup double cream

langues du chats - crumbled

top quality espresso

chocolate sauce

85% dark chocolate - 1/2 bar broken

double cream

1. whisk egg yolks, sugar and vanilla extract over simmering water until double in size, up to 15 minutes (don't stop and don't let it boil)
2. remove from heat and continue to whisk in a bowl of ice water or sink filled with a bit of cold water, until it cools off
3. whisk double cream to soft peaks
4. fold into zabaione
5. to assemble, in a wine or martini glass, break up 1/2-1 langue du chat and pour in some espresso that has cooled to room temperature (do not soak or biscuits will disintegrate); fill each glass with zabaione mixture and cover with cling film
6. place in fridge to set at least an hour
7. for chocolate sauce, melt chocolate pieces and double cream (not much) in a double boiler until it becomes a sauce; set aside until cools to room temperature
8. right before serving, drizzle a bit of chocolate sauce on top of each and serve

Treacle-Cured Salmon

Can't wait to make this, stolen from Pascal Aussignac's new cookbook.

500 gr skinned/boned salmon fillet
250 gr coarse sea salt
5 tblsp black treacle

1. sprinkle fish with salt and let chill 2-3 hours in a shallow dish
2. drain, pat dry, cut into 2 cm cubes
3. mix with treacle, marinate 10 minutes, strain again
4. put fish on tray and flash grill for a minute or until charred
5. serve skewered

Regal Shrimp Cocktail

Marie Rose sauce is a very viable alternative to the usual horseradish-spiked sauce!

best quality prawn

home-made mayo (250 ml)

1 tblsp ketchup

1 tblsp worchestershire sauce

1 tblsp cognac

1 tblsp sherry

dash of tobasco

squeeze of lemon

pinch of paprika

1. make the mayo, preferably with Italian eggs
2. stir in other ingredients
3. cook prawns as desired, arrange in a cocktail glass & add sauce

Caesar Wedge

For all of you born-again iceberg lettuce fans. What better way to have it than with some Caesar dressing? The alternative to below recipe, actually, would be to replace the Caesar dressing with the roquefort mousse and lay a sliver of grilled streaky bacon on top.

iceberg lettuce, cut into large (quarter grapefruit size) wedges

1 garlic clove

1 tbsp maille mustard

1 tbsp white wine vinegar

S&P

2 tblsp home-made mayo (or Hellman's if you insist)

3 anchovy fillets

4 tblsp EVOO

1 tblsp parmesan

dash worchestershire sauce

squeeze lemon juice

chives, chopped

1. make dressing by blending garlic, mustard, vinegar, salt to taste
2. add mayo, anchovies, parmesan, EVOO, worchestershire sauce then lemon juice while still blending
3. distribute one wedge per plate and poor lots of the caesar dressing all over the place
4. sprinkle chives generously, a turn or two of the pepper mill

Roquefort Mousse & Apple

I've been making this mousse (well, really a dip but mousse sounds nicer) for a long time, but just dawned on me tonight to have it with crisp apple wedges rather than the celery sticks which have normally accompanied it.

2 parts cottage cheese

1 part roquefort, or to taste

chives, chopped

ground pepper

salt if necessary

EVOO (1-2 tsp)

1. in a hand-held blender, zip up all the ingredients until thick & smooth
2. fold contents into a whiskey-type clear glass
3. scatter apple wedges around the glass on plate
4. sprinkle more chopped chives & drizzle more EVOO over the whole lot, maybe a couple turns of the pepper mill, if you like

Tonight's Dinner

The first Halal meal I've prepared, for the Ashs and Akins. A good time had by all, without the free flow of alcohol. The best dish, I believe, was Michelle's zabaglione.

• beet tartare on crisps
• bresaola bombs
• roquefort & chive mousse with celery sticks
• leek vinaigrette david
• smoked haddock & pesto crostini
• tuna tartare & avocado lime puree
• shittake & chestnut veloute, horseradish marscapone
• curry mussels musclade
• potato puree & caramelized onion ravioli
• radish, celeriac, pecorino & pomegranate salad
• zabaglione

Scallops, Chive Oil & Pineapple

Am I going Momofuku?

half cup grapeseed oil

1 bunch chives

8 medium scallops, sliced in half length-wise (two discs)

1/4 cup dashi, cold

1/4 cup best quality pineapple brunoise (tiny dice)

maldon sea salt

1. combine grapeseed oil & chives; blend & pass through sieve to yield bright green oil
2. divide scallops up (maybe small ramekins? big soup spoons?)
3. top each with dashi, tblsp of brunoise, some chive oil, and pinch of salt

Oysters & Melon Gelee

Another Momofuku recipe. It just sounds cool, and I'm guessing tastes good too.

1 sheet gelatin

2/3 cup strained green melon juice

1 tblsp rice wine vinegar

1. puree fresh melon, strain through fine sieve
2. soak gelatin in hot water for 5 minutes, wring out & combine with melon juice and vinegar in a bowl
3. put bowl in fridge; chill 6-8 hours until set but give a stir and break up once an hour (make it look like shattered glass)
4. put on your favorite kind of oyster

Simple Dashi

You never know when you need some good dashi.

one 3-6 inch piece of konbu

8 cups water

2 handfuls katsuo-bushi

1. rinse konbu, combine with water
2. bring water to simmer, turn off heat and let seep ten minutes
3. add katsuo-bushi and let seep another 7 minutes
4. strain dashi, use immediately or keep for a couple days

Apple Salad, Bacon & Maple Labneh

I couldn't help give this a go after reading it in Momofuku's new cookbook. Kind of busy but everyone seemed to enjoy it!

fuji, or some other tart & crisp apple

kimchi

labneh

quality maple syrup

best quality back bacon (pork jowl used)

rucola

EVOO

lemon

S&P

1. zip up kimchi in a blender til smooth
2. cut the apples in cubes or wedges, dress with the kimchi (don't overpower apples, just a hint of kimchi sufficient)
3. mix labneh & maple syrup (should be sweet)
4. grill bacon until caramelizing
5. dress rucola with EVOO, small squeeze of lemon, S&P
6. to plate, put a spoonful of labneh-maple mixture onto small plate, top with a few pieces of apple, then about 1" x 4" strip of bacon, a bit more labneh
7. sprinkle a few leaves of rucola over the whole lot, maybe a turn of the pepper mill

Fromage Pepe Gino

My grandfather always ate his emmental like this. It's probably one of the dullest cheeses in existence so no wonder. No freshly-ground pepper or Maldon sea salt here; just plain ground salt and pepper.

emmental

salt

ground pepper

1. cut emmental into cubes or thick batons
2. sprinkle some salt and pepper on top

Braised Whole Oxtail

One of my favorite dishes from one of my favorite eating establishments in London-The Hereford. There isn't much point in doing it unless you serve the tail whole!

1 whole oxtail

S&P

EVOO

15 shallots, peeled & left whole

splash of balsamic vinegar

half bottle good red wine

a bunch of organic carrots

bouquet garni of rosemary, thyme, fresh bay leaf

half head of garlic cut crossways

1.5 liters stock made previous day from oxtail & beef bones

1. pre-heat oven 220 degrees c
2. trim excess fat from base of oxtail, but leave some on for flavor and moistness in the finished dish!
3. in order to cook the oxtail whole you need a large fish poacher or long roasting pan to accommodate its length; season oxtail with S&P, brown oxtail then place in oven to brown further for five minutes
4. remove from oven and turn temperature down to 180 degrees c
5. brown shallots in a skillet to give good color; toward end, add vinegar and wine and simmer to reduce until nearly gone; add to oxtail
6. trim carrots, also add to oxtail with bouquet garni, stock
7. cover pot with aluminum foil and lid; braise 3.5 hours, then take lid off and brown in oven for a further 20 minutes
8. check for seasoning before serving, preferably with some silky smooth buttery mash potatoes

Michelle's Roast Potatoes

I could eat these every night. With Wednesday night's herb salad, and a slice of prosciutto cotto, or jambon de Paris, with a nice tub of mustard nearby. Maris Piper are great, but if you can get a Scottish variety all the better. Blue-skinned Arran Victory is the king of roasties, a claim backed up by Heston himself (natural dryness guarantees crispiness). Other good British varieties include the sweeter Dunbar Rover, British Queen, King Edwards and the red Duke of York. On the issue of fat, I think below is the best way to go; although I'd like to try the Michael Caine (apparently a very good cook!) method of soaking the boiled potatoes in a 1 cm of cold EVOO, adding some rosemary and sage leaves for extra taste (marinating them in cold EVOO allows the fat to be absorbed into the fuzzy surface and makes a thicker crust). Below can also be tried with duck or goose fat, pork lard or beef drippings for a more old-fashioned flavor. Also in step 7 below, consider heating oil before putting spuds into the baking tray.

Maris Piper Potatoes, about one large potato per person, peeled & cut into quarters (4cm)

1 tblsp EVOO

S&P

1 tsp saffron, if desired

baking tray to accommodate all potatoes comfortably in one layer

1. pre-heat oven to 220*C and place baking tray with 2 tblsp of oil in it
2. put potatoes in a pot with boiling water to almost cover them
3. add 1 tblsp of salt (and half of crushed saffron powder if using); salt speeds the crumbling of the cells, making the potato a fraction crunchier
4. bring potatoes back to a boil then cover and simmer gently until outer edge of potatoes are fluffy (approximately 6 minutes, depending on size)
5. drain water with potatoes in the pan. Holding lid firmly on pan, shake vigorously to create a fluffy surface on the potatoes
6. remove baking tray from oven and place on direct medium heat
7. place potatoes into baking tray and turn potatoes so they are evenly coated with oil (if using saffron, baste potatoes with remaining oil/saffron mixture)
8. return tray to highest shelf in oven and bake for 40-50 minutes until potatoes are golden and crunchy
9. 15 minutes before end of cooking time, add rosemary sprig and a few cloves of garlic
10. season with salt and serve straightaway

Wednesday Night Herb Salad

We made this salad last night, which was a Wednesday night. It was good, too. What really makes the Wednesday Night Herb Salad special, though, is that it's my 100th post in this blog!

1/3 radicchio

1/3 lambs lettuce/mache

1/3 rucola/rocket

handful each of chopped mint, tarragon and dill

vinaigrette

moutarde (Maille)

cider vinegar

red wine vinegar

EVOO

S&P

1. make your vinaigrette including both vinegars, on the thickish side
2. toss with salad leaves & herbs

Chicken Tonnato & Celeri Remoulade

Very happy with this. First it was the veal, then the squid, and now chicken or pork. It doesn't really matter, it's all about the tonnato sauce!

roast chicken slices (quality pre-sliced off the store shelf ok)

tonnato sauce (use squid tonnato recipe or sauce below)

celeri remoulade with capers

pain poilane

alternative tonnato sauce

tuna

capers

squeeze of lemon

cornichons

anchovies to taste

white pepper

1. put chicken (or pork) slices on plate, smear with tonnato sauce
2. plop some celeri remoulade alongside, and some pain poilane

Fettuccine Fungi Casa

Maybe because we were very hungry tonight, but this made our tummies very happy.

fresh egg pasta (3.5 cups 00 flour, 4 eggs, 1 egg yolk)

couple handfuls wild mushrooms

Italian butter

garlic

white wine

rosemary, minced (1 tsp)

handful of minced chives

organic chicken stock tube

parmesan

ground black pepper

maldon sea salt

EVOO

truffle oil (optional)

1. make fettuccine with egg pasta (use organic Italian eggs with orange yolk)
2. cut mushrooms, saute in butter with rosemary in a large non-stick pan
3. grate garlic into pan with mushrooms (to taste)
4. crumble about a third of chicken stock tube, mix further into butter
5. add 1 drop of truffle oil, if you like (just a hint of truffle preferred, to give dish a more rounded flavor than to actually taste the truffle)
6. once mushrooms look relatively cooked, add dash of white wine & turn up heat a bit
7. boil pasta in salted water for 2 minutes max, then with some thongs transfer directly into saute pan with mushrooms
8. add a bit more butter, pepper, salt, chives
9. serve, drizzle tiny bit of EVOO, grate some parmesan, maybe a bit more pepper

Tonight's Dinner

A multi-course dinner with the Etroys and Jenny tonight:

• bresaola bombs
• san daniele and apple salad wraps
• grilled polenta & brandade de morue
• curry moules mousclade & mouillettes
• squid tonnato
• radish, celeriac, pecorino & pomegranate salad
• cotechino, lentils, mostarda
• speck & fontina ravioli with wild mushrooms
• herb salad
• caerphilly, red pepper chutney, michelle's oatcakes
• tiramisu trattoria felice style

Lardo & Rosemary Crostini

One of my favorite Italian canapes hands down.

lardo di Colonnata

best quality EVOO

maldon sea salt

best quality peasant bread

rosemary, chopped very finely

1. grill bread
2. place slices of lardo on bread immediately after grilling (will melt)
3. sprinkle salt and rosemary, eat asap while still warm!

Scallops, Citrus & Parmesan

A recipe from Olivier Bellin's Alsacian resto Auberge des Glazicks in Plomodiern. Swiped from my Gault Millau magazine.

4 scallops

25 cl orange juice

1/2 cauliflower

10 gr fresh almonds

20 gr parmesan

25 cl carrot juice

1 pinch of good quality curry powder

5 cl EVOO

1 tsp piment d'Espelette

10 gr of salted butter

Maldon sea salt

1. reduce orange juice with curry until just about dry, add 4 cl EVOO
2. emulsify in a mixer while adding the carrot juice
3. crumble the cauliflower into uneven bits, saute in butter with almonds for ten minutes
4. add a nice pinch of parmesan
5. season the scallops with salt, pepper, piment and saute in a separate pan 1-2 minutes each side depending on size
6. in the middle of each plate, put a tblsp of the orange reduction; sprinkle cauliflower over before topping off with a scallop; spoon the carrot emulsion on top, finishing off with some drops of EVOO

Wish List (Updated Regularly)

Things I want.....

• mushroom picking & eating, with a portable hot plate, garlic, parsley, butter, salt & pepper, some good bread and bottle of red, a nice little rock to sit on with hills to gaze over
• calabrian chillies
• Pierre Gagnaire cookbook (recipes from 1960s-present)
• borough market on a monday morning
• Tasty Easy Italian (innovative recipes)
• serve several espressos in shot glasses on stainless steel platter, napkins to the side, with spoons
• Moi Chef d'Un Soir, Table de Claire (Parisian chef invites amateurs to take over her restaurant kitchen on given nights)

Rome Trattoria Picks

Current top Roman trattoria picks, in order of preference.

1. Trattoria Felice (Testaccio): the best cacio e pepe I've had (with fresh tonarelli), a gricia that rivals or surpasses that of Macceroni, the best ever tiramisu (well, more of a zabaione with coffee-drenched butter cookies and chocolate sauce). Luckily for us artichokes were in full season, and I've never had better. It's been well covered but I think week day lunch does the trick, still managing to feel local. Testaccio is Les Halles/Smithfields equivalent for Rome, so plenty of food-related things going on ie genuine local food market, and many other local trattorie that we have yet to discover.
2. La Campagna (Centro Storico): one of my first trattoria discoveries many years ago, and still a favorite; the best antipasti bar I know, especially because of the cornucopia of local greens i.e., chicoria, garlic shoots, broccoli romano, etc etc.
3. Trattoria Monti (Monti): higher endish Marche rather than Roman trattoria; very well known but still managing to feel no-frills and local. Highlight was a Marche take on a gricia, ie pecorino di Fossa Sogliano al Rubicone instead of Romano; and local Marche crumbled sausage as opposed to guanciale. Michelle also had a ravioli (more of a bonbon) of buttery silky potato mash with tiny dice of guanciale, sauteed in butter & sprinkled with chives. Also as appetizer had a sensational ciauscolo, a softer Marche salami. Asking the owner post meal what his favorite dish of the moment was, he replied: make a traditional spinach, ricotta tortelle but add an egg yolk before you seal the pasta. Boil tortelle, saute in a pan with butter, then shave truffles over them. Mama, mama.
4. Hostaria da Pietro (Centro Storico): near via Babuino, yet so far. Classic Roman, especially good charcuterie. Although we were there in the evening, feels like it could be a popular place for local business people.
5. Primo (Pigneto): more a resto than trattoria, borderline creative but doesn't seem to break any rules! A classy joint in a bohemian hood, and does the trick if you want to wander off the gricia path a bit.

Fig & Fromage Frais

Not worth it unless the figs are tip top.

best quality, sweet figs

fromage frais

vanilla bean

sugar

1. slice figs up into quarters
2. mix together seeds from vanilla bean, sugar to taste and fromage frais
3. put figs on platter, spoon fromage frais over figs

Tuna Tartare & Guacamole

The variations are endless. Love this one too, this time provided by the gentle Frenchman at Barrafina. This Asian-style tartare breaks with the otherwise traditionalist Spanish tapas on their menu.

best quality tuna, chopped into small cubes
EVOO
chives (?? gotta check)
sesame seeds
sesame oil
coriander, chopped
soy sauce

guacamole:
avocados
coriander, chopped
lime

1. mix tuna with other ingredients to taste
2. put guacamole ingredients in a blender and mix until very smooth
3. serve tartare out of a small mold, and put a quenelle of guacamole on the side
4. best that both tuna and guacamole served fairly chilled

Steinwenden Quark Spread

I love this stuff, spread on a slice of baguette. It always appears first on the table at Raisch, my favorite local gasthaus near parents' place.

quark

red bell pepper, minced

onion & garlic minced

chives

S&P

tad of vinegar

1. mince only a tiny bit of garlic, some onion to taste, add some vinegar and allow to sit a quarter hour
2. once latter done, mix into quark with other ingredients

Things to Make (Updated Regularly)

Dishes I want to make....

• roasted whole guinea fowl (hereford)
• scallops & gremolata (boca di lupo)
  
• walnut & rocket pesto crostini (polpo)
  
• salt cured pollack, white beans, watercress (hereford)
• roast guinea hen with chicory & caper salad, mayo (hereford)
  
• gourmet beef & marrow burgers (lindsey house)
• beef stroganoff (combination of stein, oliver recipes)
• pulled pork butties sandwich (marcus waering)
• sticky ribs (marcus waering)
• eel and foie gras terrine (Robuchon's Tokyo resto)
• cauliflower risotto (Heston Blumenthal cookbook)
• grilled spareribs with yoghurt and lemon (A16 cookbook)
• braised pork shoulder with chestnuts, olives and herbs (A16 cookbook)
• short ribs alla genovese with red wine, carrot, celery, anchovy, garlic, rosemary (A16 cookbook)
• cucumber salad, ricotta, almonds, bottarga (A16 cookbook)
• mackerel & cucumber tartare (Polpo)
• pork belly, dressed raddicchio, toasted hazelnuts (Polpo)
• the perfect cobb salad
• the perfect waldorf salad
• the perfect rice salad (reminiscent of Parisian traiteurs)
• snail, sausage & chickpeas (St John)
• lemon & ricotta tortelloni (River Cafe)
• beef tartare (Gavroche style)
• rhubarb tatin (Masterchef finalist recipe)
• coda alla vaccinara (The Hereford)
• acili ezme (Mangerie/Bebek)
• home-made peanut butter (Mangerie/Bebek)
• steamed mussels in burrow hill cider (Hix)
• bbq Galloway beef ribs (Hix)
• welsh rarebit (Hix)
• home-made saucisson sec, saucisson a l'ail, tete de fromage (Andre Soltner, formerly of Lutece, NYC)
• tartare of seabass & smoked salmon, flavored with lemon and basil (Robuchon)
• parmesan cappuccino with port (Robuchon)
• cauliflower jelly and tomato coulis (Robuchon)
• mackerel on thin tart with parmesan shavings and olives (Robuchon)
• salt beef & celeri remoulade with hot English mustard (Browns Hotel/Albemarle)
• braised raddichio & fried taleggio (Boca di Lupo)
• salt beef salad (Princi)

Cast Iron Rice Pudding

Inspired by a rice pudding at Hereford Road last weekend, made memorable by the skin that formed over the top of the pudding (rather than your typical stewed version). Flipping through the Arbutus cookbook shortly thereafter, I came across this recipe by chance, which looked and tasted very much like the one at the The Hereford. The only thing I've added is some vanilla seed. Eat lukewarm or even cold--fabulous with some blackcurrent jelly.

100 gr unsalted butter
180 gr short grain rice
120 gr unrefined golden caster sugar
1 liter full fat jersey milk (if not avail, add 150 ml whipping cream)

vanilla seed

1. preheat oven to 130 c
2. in cast iron pan about 5 cm deep, melt the butter; add the rice, sugar, milk and vanilla, bring to the boil and take off the heat; with a fork, evenly distribute the rice over the base of the pan
3. bake in the preheated oven for about 1.5 hrs; at no point should you disturb the pudding otherwise you sacrifice the formation of the skin
4. after this time, open the oven and without removing the pudding gently wobble the pan but be careful not to break the skin; there should be a bit of movement under the skin, as if the pudding is not set; if too much movement, leave in the oven a while; when happy, remove from oven; residual heat will finish off the cooking--this can take a half hour at which point you will have a delicious creamy pudding
5. can cheat by grilling if skin not quite there!!

Petits Haricots Verts & Cheddar

Green beans and hard cheese are a winning combo. A spontaneous combo whipped up tonight. Very basic but so packed with flavor, especially the bottom of the bowl when the green beans are gone but the dressed cheese remains.

best quality petits haricots verts

mild white cheddar cheese

EVOO

squeeze of lemon juice

maldon sea salt

fresh ground pepper

piment d'espelette

chopped chives

chopped chervil

chopped parsley

1. steam green beans until just cooked (not crunchy), let cool a few minutes
2. chop the cheese into tiny cubes (to fit four on a thumbnail); the proportion of cheese to beans should be almost 1:2
3. add all ingredients to taste; be very generous with the chives and chervil
4. toss well, let marinate for 10 mins or so

Portobello Salad

A good way to use leftover portobello mushrooms, or any mushroom for that matter. Really nice accompanying some gruyere, cheddar or caerphilly.

portobello mushrooms

EVOO

maldon sea salt

fresh ground pepper

squeeze of lemon

chopped chives

chopped chervil

piment d'espelette

garlic, halved

1. slice up mushrooms
2. put in bowl with all ingredients
3. let sit for half hour, stirring from time to time
4. remove garlic before serving

White Wine Cake

A simple, moist and delicious little cake from Anne-Emmanuelle. Merci.

4 eggs

1 glass of sugar

1 glass of corn oil

1 glass of white wine

3 glasses of flour

1 pack of yeast (15 gr)

1. mix all well
2. put in oven that has been preset at 180 degrees C
3. cook for about 30 mins

Tonight's Dinner

Tasty, but overcooked the rice pudding. Need to increase the wasabi dosage in the ice cream too.

tuna tartare & wasabi ice cream
mousclade curry
grilled mackerel, rhubarb, horseradish creme fraiche
michelle's oatcakes, manou's chutney, caerphilly
baked rice pudding, black current jam

Chicken Coconut Salad

I think this is the best thing I've had at E&O, except for maybe the Miang?

500 ml chicken stock
2 sticks lemongrass
4 cm piece galangal, peeled and roughly chopped
4 chick breasts, skin on
1 cup coconut cream
1 tsp palm sugar
1 tsp fish sauce
juice half lime
handful coriander leaves
handful mint leaves
handful thai sweet basil leaves
2 thai shallots
1 birds eye chilli, deseeded and finely sliced

Spice paste
clove garlic
12 white peppercorn
2 green birdseye chilli

Garnish
2 tblsp dessicated coconut
1 tblsp deep-fried fried shallot (store-bought fine)
1 lime leaf, finely shredded

1. make paste-pound everything together in a mortar
2. in saucepan, combine chicken stock, lemongrass, galangal and bring to boil; lower heat to simmer and add chicken breasts; poach gently for 15-20 mins; turn off heat and let chicken cool in stock; drain chicken and pat dry before shredding very finely and discarding the skin
3. when ready to serve, bring coconut cream to boil, stir in fish sauce and sugar; allow to cool slightly then add spice paste and shredded chicken and gently warm through; remove from heat and add squeeze of lime juice
4. pan fry dry coconut until brown
5. in large serving bowl, toss herbs with shallots and chili; spoon chicken onto salad leaves and sprinkle with coconut, the fried shallots and lime leaf

Sauteed Eel with Persillade

It's eel-hunting season, baby! Of course it helps to get your fish monger to skin the eel alive....

450g skinned eel on the bone

25g plain flour, for dusting

persillade

10g peeled garlic

handful/15g flatleaf parsley leaves

1 tbsp sunflower oil

S&P

50g unsalted butter

1. cut the eel across into 5 cm pieces, then dust them with the flour and knock off excess
2. for the persillade, chop up garlic very finely, add parsley leaves and continue chopping them together
3. heat oil in large frying pan, add the eel pieces and saute on one side over a medium heat for 2-3 minutes, seasoning them lightly with S&P as they cook
4. turn eels over, season once more and fry a further 2-3 minutes until cooked through
5. when eel is almost cooked, take a second frying pan, add the butter and melt it over a medium heat. Add the persillade and cook very gently for 15 seconds to take away the raw taste of the garlic
6. tip the fried eel pieces into the second pan and toss everything together well
7. transfer to a warmed serving plate, garnish with the lemon wedges and serve with plenty of good quality crusty bread

Lousana's Chili

I haven't tried this, but I want to! Lousana my sister-in-law gave us this recipe. Yummy!

shredded cooked chicken, roasted at 350F for 1/2 hour

onions

garlic

red bell pepper

carrots

jalapeno pepper

chipotle peppers in adobo

cumin

chili pepper

dried oregano

brown sugar

fresh tomatoes or tinned

tomato paste

various canned beans (or fresh if you have the time)

frozen corn

good quality broth

cheddar cheese

scallions/red onions

cilantro

sour cream

lime

1. shred chicken
2. sautee onions until softened, add one garlic clove minced
3. add chopped red bell peppers, carrots, jalapeno pepper
4. add chipotle peppers, sautee for a few minutes
5. add some cumin and chili pepper, cocoa, and dried oregano, brown sugar to taste
6. put chicken in pot
7. add chopped tomatoes (or 28 oz can good quality tinned tomatoes) and tomato paste
8. add beans (black, kidney, cannelini)
9. add corn
10. add broth, enough to cover and let simmer until thickens to your liking (can cover it first for a while--maybe half hour--then uncover and let it reduce/thicken for another 15 minutes; tastier if slow cooked for an hour or more)
11. serve it with brown rice, garnish with cheddar cheese, scallions or chopped red onions, cilantro, lime and sour cream (!).

Scandi Snackie

My creation although admittedly not very original! The crispiness of cracker combined with chewiness of the salmon, along with the other classic flavor combos, works nicely. Make a dinner out of them, with a crispy green salad and tangy vinaigrette to accompany.

ryvita crackers
smoked salmon
creme fraiche
horseradish (fresh)
dill
butter
lemon rind
juice of lemon
salt

1. mix 1 part horseradish to 5 parts creme fraiche, squeeze lemon juice and add salt to taste
2. break crackers up into bite size pieces
3. spread butter on cracker
4. layer with slice of salmon
5. sprinkle lemon rind
6. squeeze tad of lemon juice
7. put a spoonful of creme fraiche mixture on top
8. sprinkle fresh dill

Celery Remoulade & Crispy Pancetta

One of my favorites. Both textures are crunchy, the celery root with a nice acidic dressing and the pancetta with a pleasing, salty fattiness. Perfect with some chilled gamay, and crusty baguette. Many variations, i.e., the addition of grated green apples to lighten it up, or adding capers to give it a nice twang (don't mix apples and capers though).

celeriac, grated in long thin strips (mandolin best)
lemon
vinaigrette of red wine vinegar, olive oil, dijon mustard, whole grain mustard, salt and pepper to taste
home-made mayonnaise, with squeeze of lemon
creme fraiche
S&P
parsley & chives
pancetta strips
EVOO

1. grate the celery root, squeeze a bit of lemon and mix to prevent from discoloring
2. mix in vinaigrette to loosen up, let set 6 hours
3. make mayonnaise, add to celery to taste
4. mix in creme fraiche to taste (about a tblsp)
5. chop lots of the herbs, add to celery
6. fry up pancetta til crispy but chewy
7. put celery remoulade on plate, top with a couple pancetta strips
8. drizzle olive oil, couple turns of the pepper mill

Ham Hock Terrine & Piccalilly

Something I've been wanting to make for a long time. Given to me by Mark Hix's PA. Seems like this dish is appearing on every other gastropub's menu these days, but I trust that Hix' recipe is best, which is why I asked for it. There's the more traditional version that I love and grew up with, jambon persille & mustard, and better yet although a lot different, fromage de tete (would need to check with HQ before I boil a pig head in the house though). It's possible that one can get away with using the calf foot because the hamhock lets off some natural gelatin. I might hesitate as one risks losing flavor this way. A leftover idea is to shove pieces of the terrine between two best quality pieces of bread/bun, smother with piccalilli and a few lettuce leaves (inspired by a ham and piccalilli sandwich I had at John Torode's new resto, Luxe, at Spitafields).

1 ham hock, 1 kg, soaked overnight in cold water

a few sprigs of thyme

1 bay leaf

2 medium onions, peeled & quartered

3 celery stalks

10 black peppercorns

9g (3 sheets of) gelatine (or a calf foot)

2 tblsp chopped parsley

piccalilli

1 med cucumber, halved lengthwise and deseeded

1/2 large head of cauliflower, cut into small florets then halved

1 onion, peeled and cut into large dice

1 tbsp salt

150 g caster sugar

65 g English mustard

1/2 tsp ground termeric

1 small chilli, deseeded & finely chopped

150 ml malt vinegar

125 ml of white wine vinegar

1 level tbsp cornflour

1. at least a week ahead, make the piccalilli: cut the cucumber in half again lengthwise, then cut into 1 cm pieces; put them in a dish with the cauliflower and onion, then sprinkle with salt; leave for 1 hour, then rinse well in cold water and drain in a colander.
2. in a saucepan, mix the sugar, mustard, turmeric, chilli and the two vinegars then bring to the boil and simmer 2-3 mins.
3. meanwhile, mix the cornflour with 150 ml water, whisk into the vinegar mixture and continue to simmer gently for another 5 minutes. Mix the hot liquid with the vegetables and leave the mixture to cool. Store in the fridge in sterilized Kilner jars for at least a week before use and up to 6 months.
4. put the hock into a saucepan with the rest of the ingredients except the gelatine and parsley; bring to the boil and simmer for about 2 hours, until the hock is tender (the cooking time may vary according to the cut and size. Remove from the liquid and leave to cool.
5. skim off any fat. For a hock this size you will need to remove about 350 ml of the cooking liquid to ensure it sets; however, a hock will generally produce more natural gelatine so add one less sheet of gelatine if using hock.
6. soak the gelatine leaves in a shallow bowl of cold water for a minute or so until soft. Squeeze out the water and add to the hot cooking liquor with the parsley and stir until dissovled. Leave somewhere to cool, but don't let it set.
7. meanwhile, cut the hame into rough 1 cm cubes, removing any fat and put it in a bowl. Mix in a little of the cooled stock and pack into either a suitable-sized terrine mould or a similarly-shaped rectangular container. Top up with the remaining stock.
8. cover with cling film, and leave to set in fridge over night.
9. to serve, briefly--about 15 seconds-- dip the terrine into a bowl of boiling water and then turn it upside down onto a chopping board to turn out.
10. with a carving knife, cut into 2 cm thick slices & serve with spoonful of piccalilli

Wine Notes

I've always been fond of young, fresh and chilled French gamays. There are other, less obvious red wines that are also great chilled, some as far south as Puglia. This list will grow, as I will add as I discover more:

• Bardolino, Monte del Fra (Veneto)
• Fichimori, Tormaresca-Antinori (Puglia): 100% negroamaro
• Pallavicini Rubillo Cesanese 2008 (Lazio)
• Alois Lageder Sudtirol 2006 (Alto Adige): 100% Pinot Nero
• Barbera del Monferrato, La Briosa Montalbera (Piedmonte): 100% Barbera
• Wein, R&A Pfalffl, a blend of zweigelt and pinot noire from Austria

Tuna Tartare Umu

Ingredients as far as I understood from the Brazilian sushi chef at Umu. A bit on the busy side, but determined to reproduce and refine below after a couple more calls.

tuna--toro if you can (300 gr)

black sesame seeds (1 tsp)

soy sauce light (20 ml)

shiso cress (12 leaves)

shallot (50 gr)

pickled ginger (50 gr)

whole grain mustard (1 tsp)

ken (daikon julienne)

ichimi pepper (pinch)

quail egg (4)

salt (pinch)

black pepper (pinch)

red onion (50 gr)

cashew nuts (20 gr)

nikiri sauce (20 ml)

garnish

thinly sliced fried leek

sliced fried garlics

sliced fried lotus roots

shiso vinaigrette

light olive oil flavored with cinnamon, star anise, black & white pepper

rice vinegar

sesame oil

minced shiso leaf

1. chop tuna into 5 mm cubes; mix with chopped shallots, finely chopped pickled ginger, ichimi pepper, 15 gr finely chopped cashews, one pinch of salt, black sesame, one pinch of black pepper, olive oil, wholegrain mustard and the soy sauce.
2. on the plate, dress a bed of shiso cress leaves and nicely set the tuna on top; add shredded red onion and daikon julienne.
3. sprinkle 5 gr of finely chopped cashew, ichimi pepper and nikiri sauce around the tuna
4. (optional): rest a half shell of quail egg with yolk only on bed of wet salt; add yolk when serving, let guests mix egg into tuna

note: looking at another variation of above using shiso vinaigrette and garnish

Cabbage, Anchovy & Chili Spaghetti

We were quite happy with this throw together pasta, perfect for an early autumn dindin.

spaghetti, preferably darker wheat, or kamut or spelt

young cabbage

red chili, 1 week-dry

garlic

tin of anchovies

chicken stock

EVOO

black pepper

1. saute sliced garlic & minced chili, then melt the anchovies
2. slice up cabbage as finely as possible with a mandolin, add to pan and let saute about 10 minutes
3. add about half cup of chicken stock, stir from time to time until mostly but not all evaporated (don't want it too dry)
4. cook pasta, drain, add to pan with a couple tblsp pasta water, stir so that pasta is well coated
5. add EVOO, bit of ground black pepper and serve

San Daniele Ham & Apple Salad

Inspired by a recipe from NYC's Babbo restaurant.

best quality San Daniele prosciutto

assortment of good quality apples, preferably tart and crunchy

EVOO

1 tblsp cider vinegar

S&P

1 tsp lemon

bundle of chives

1. cut apples into batons, squeeze lemon juice on apples to prevent coloring
2. make vinaigrette, chop chives and toss with apple batons
3. lay ham out on wooden platter, serve with a bowl of apple salad on the side

Vanilla Yoghurt & Pomegranate Seeds

Not a recipe but sensational! M&S sells pomegranate ready-picked so no need to bother with doing it yourself.

good quality vanilla yoghurt

pomegranate seeds

1. put yoghurt in a glass
2. add a handful or more of pomegranate seeds (equal parts of each fine too!)

Shaved Radish, Celeriac & Pecorino with Pomegranates & Truffle Oil

The Boca di Lupo staple appetizer, on their menu since day one. The very kind chef, ex-Moro Jacob Kenedy, gave me the recipe as I sat at the counter a few months ago. Key ingredient is the black radish--no guarantee that you can even get it at Borough market. Still pretty good without it though.

black radish

red radish

celeriac

pomegranate seeds

flat leaf parsley

pecorino romano

EVOO

white balsamic vinegar

white truffle oil (to taste, couple drops)

S&P

1. slice radishes with mandolin as thinly as possible (taste black radish, if it's too hot soak in ice cold water for 15 mins).
2. slice celeriac very thin as well--best to use a vegetable peeler
3. in a big bowl, toss together all the ingredients and 1/3 of the shaved pecorino, with EVOO, vinegar, S&P
4. assemble on plates, shave more cheese on top, sprinkle more pomegranate seeds

Grilled Puff Balls & Salsa Verde

This got the best review at dinner last night. Seriously tasty and unlike any mushroom we've had before. Had to trek to Borough market to find them, and they're only available during September. I remember riding my bike as a kid in the forests in Germany, and they were everywhere!

puff balls

parsley

one or any combo of basil, tarragon, chives (your taste)

grilled garlic, mashed

capers

red wine vinegar

dijon mustard

EVOO

S&P

1. cut puff balls into half inch slices
2. put in large bowl, douse with EVOO, S&P
3. heat stove top grill very hot
4. make green sauce by chopping up herbs, capers, garlic & mixing in EVOO, vinegar, mustard, S&P
5. grill puff balls on both sides until you see brown grill marks--add S&P as you go
6. serve on a plate, spoon green sauce on top

Tonight's Dinner

A tasty dinner for newlyweds Mark and Gaia, who are off to Singapore.

negroni sbagliato

mozzarella, chili, marjoram, lemon rind & creme fraiche

san daniele ham & apple salad

radish, celeriac, pomegranate, pecorino & truffle oil vinaigrette

grilled puff balls & green sauce

rigatoni a la gricia

oven dried fig, young pecorino, dessert wine

finely sliced raddichio & rucola salad

frozen muscat grapes, artisan du chocolat tablets, dessert wine

Cockley Cley Chicken

Ali Maurin made this comforting dish for us at her family's picture perfect home in Norfolk. A lovely weekend lunch dish in that you can pop it in the oven before your morning errands, ready on your return. Serve with salad and fresh bread.

chicken pieces (thighs and legs for flavor)

flageolet beans

onion

garlic

lemon juice & zest

chicken stock

S&P

fresh thyme

1. brown chicken pieces in oil, transfer to an ovenproof dish
2. soften a chopped onion in the same frying pan and add to dish
3. put pre-cooked or tinned flageolet beans in the dish with the onion and add peeled cloves of garlic, juice of lemon (quantity depending on amount of chicken or to taste) and some zest
4. add some chicken stock
5. sprinkle finely chopped thyme, S&P
6. cover tightly and bake very slowly for 1-2 hours at 160 c

Home-Made Mayo Varieties

Scribbles from a Tyler Florence book a few years back when I was obsessed with making mayo. Still am. Generally speaking the additional ingredients must be blitzed so that they blend in smoothly with mayo.

arugula, orange zest & almond mayo

roasted garlic, anchovy & capers mayo

curry, orange zest, mint & peanuts mayo

sweet pepper, fennel, paprika mayo (saute 1st two with saffron)

lemon & caper mayo

Coq au Vin Mamie

Another discovery in my piles of papers tonight. A fax from 6 September 1996--almost 13 years ago to the day--from my aunt in Paris to my office in Singapore. I had asked her to ring my grandmother for her coq au vin recipe that I obviously needed quickly for one of our faux winter dinner parties. Apparently my grandmother had resisted sharing the recipe given the futility of locating a rooster in Singapore. Of course she was right, so we had to settle for a firm chicken. I've retyped it here, word for word.

1 coq de 1.5 kg

50 gr beurre

100 g lard de poitrine fume

1/2 litre bon vin rouge

2 cuilleres a soupe de cognac

2 oignons

2 gousses ail

2 cuilleres a souple de farine

bouquet garnie

sel et poivre

1. faire revenir les morceaux de coq
2. ajouter les oignons en rondelles
3. saupoudrer de farine, melanger
4. arroser de cognac et faire flamber
5. couvrir de vin rouge
6. ajouter sel et poivre, ail, bouquet garni
7. porter a ebullition
8. couper le lard en des, mettre les des dans une casserole d'eau froide et faire bouillir 5 minutes pour enlever l'exces, bien egoutter et ajouter dans la cocotte
9. laisser cuire 1 heure ou meme 1 heure et demi selon l'age du coq

Notable Meals

From Great Queen Street the other day, with a 37.5 of chilled Beaujolais.

grilled puff balls with salsa verde

ham hock & foie gras terrine

green salad with mint & coriander vinaigrette

freshly-baked bread & butter

Norwegian Delight

A little number I remember from --must have been 2002 or something-- a dinner with Wilhelm and his Norwegian friends. One of the wives had made this, and I remember it being so fresh and fishy and delicious. I recently served it on an endive leaf- looked pretty and tasted good too.

sour cream (thick)

red onion chopped very finely

tiny cooked prawn, halved

smoked salmon, chopped

dill

S&P

small lettuce leaf (escarole)

1. mix all ingredients together
2. put in fridge to thicken
3. serve on cooled, toasted bread
4. lettuce leaf (I think this was on top not between bread and topping!)

Bistrot Ari & David Christmas Menus

I'm digging them up and posting them here, in reverse order. That means this year's our 7th annual, like Manou!

Christmas 2009

Champagne

Greek Pissaladiere

Jowl Bacon, Kimchi Apple & Maple Labneh

Mackerel, Rhubarb Compote, Horseradish

Tuna Tartare & Wasabi Ice Cream

Lemon Chitarra & Prawn Brains

Skate Wing & Crushed Crab Potatoes

Curry Mussel Musclade

Parmesan Polenta & Truffled Brandade de Morue

Pan-Fried Foie Gras & Caramelized Leeks

Celeriac, Radish, Pomegranate & Truffle

Slow-Cooked Pig Cheek Ravioli

Melon Granita & Basil Soup

Goose & Hay, Prune & Chestnut Stuffing

Dill, Tarragon, Mint & Mixed Leaves

Caerphilly, Michelle's Oat Biscuits, Red Pepper Chutney

Zabaione da Felice

Coffee/Digestif & Jule's Truffles

Christmas 2008

Champagne Cocktail

Carrot & Lemongrass Shot

Wild Icelandic Salmon & Celeri Remoulade

Scallop & Morcilla w/ Jerusalem Artichoke Mash

Bacon, Trotter & Prune on Foie Gras Toast

Cod Cheeks with Green Peppercorn Sauce

Beetroot Gazpacho & Avocado Sorbet

Pheasant Saltimbocca & Confit w/ Vacherin Potatoes

Mac & Truffle Cheese

Oxtail & Quail Egg on Toast

Bouillabaisse David

Mango Carpaccio

Canon of Lamb & Yam

Treacle Tart with Vanilla Bourbon Ice Cream

Coffee & Shortbread

Digestif

Christmas 2007

Waterloos & Champagne

Hapsburg Beet & Date Caviar

Thoroddsson-Caught Salmon w/Horseradish Cream

Coquilles St Jacques Nobu Style

Marrow & Herb Salad on Toast

Shroom Stroganoff

Fancy Cream of Corn, Burnt Nut Oil

Foie Gras Bonbon

Helix Pomatia Mar & Montunya

Home-Made Fontina & Porcini Cappelletti, Sirloin Brodo

Pepper-Crusted Black Cod with Teriyaki Reduction

Ice-Cold Cavaillon Carpaccio

18 Hour Beef with 2 Anti-Cuchos

Salad Exotique Redux

Bruno's Surprise

Roasted Vanilla-Infused Pineapple, Citrus Mascarpone

Stilton & Port

Coffee, Fresh Mint Tea

Macaroons

Digestif

Christmas 2005

Cocktails

Sevruga Caviar Versailles Style

Chestnut-Wild Mushroom Veloute w/Horseradish Marscapone & Hazelnut Oil

Dressed Kamchatka Crab & Sweet Corn Ice Cream

Tuna Ribbons, Radish & Aromatic Chili Oil from the Bund

Pan-Fried Baby Red Mullet with Umeboshi Plum Cream

Red Grape & Lime Slush

Truffled Bacalao Raviolini in Broth

Heston's Snail Porridge

Cucumber Tarragon Salad Kazakh Style

Basil Lemongrass Soda

Smoked Puffin & Duck with Persimmon Jelly

Oxtail Tatin with Coffee Tomato Confit

Icelandic Meatballs with Rhubarb Chutney

Daylesford Penyston Cheese & Yuzu Salad

Bitter Chocolate Ice Cream Catalonia Style

Cafe, The, Infusion

Digestif

Christmas 2003

Beet Tartare

Potato Ravioli

Ricotta Chili Bomb

Scallop & Cauliflower in Caper-Raisin Sauce

Surf & Turf Bouchee a la Reine with Pernod Cream

Celeriac Parmentier with Foie Gras, Truffle, Sweet Gnocchi

Petits Haricots Verts Salad with Laguiole

Loup de Mer Madagascan Vanilla Essence

Mango Mambo de Tito Puente

Saltimbocca Polynesienne

Mixed Herb Salad

Selection of English Cheeses

Choco-Coffee Parfait

Cafe, The, Infusion

Petits Fours

Digestives

Salmon Tartare Nicoise

Although there isn't anything particularly Nicoise about this--the salmon for one--the recipe is a hand me down from the chef at Flaveur, one of Nice's coolest restos. Chef worked at Sketches in London prior to opening Flaveur, and rather understatedly claimed that former boss Pierre Gagnaire was "a very good chef".

top quality salmon filet

coarse sea salt

baby scallions

fresh coriander

juice of lime

zest of lime

soy sauce

EVOO

black radish (sliced thinly thru mandolin)

fennel shoots

1. coat salmon with salt, let sit for 10-15 minutes, rinse off and pat dry
2. chop salmon into small cubes
3. add juice of lime
4. mix in finely chopped scallions, coriander
5. add zest, few drops of soy sauce, EVOO
6. dress radish with EVOO and salt
7. mound up the tartare, dress with fennel shoots, adjoin with a few slices of radish

Mackerel Rillettes & Toasted Sesame

One of Keisuke Matshushima's appetizers. He calls for 100g of butter; I think we can get away with 50g-75g.

1 liter of home-made veggie stock

300g mackerel

100g best quality Normandy butter

30g of white sesame

1. cook the mackerel in stock very delicately
2. drain fish, blend with butter until nice paste
3. pan fry sesame seeds until just golden, add in
4. serve on a spoon or cracker

Cote d'Azur Resto Picks

The concentration of young, inspired and modern cooking is to be found in Nice. I only ate at a handful of these places but have ranked them based on feedback & insights from others.

1. La Part des Anges: a wine store with a few tables set haphazardly and a tiny kitchen in the back. An amazing concept and surprising we don't see it more often.
2. Flaveur: ex-Sketches/Gagnaire chef doing modern twists with Provence ingredients
3. Le Bistrot d'Antoine: a delicious bistrot with an animated and caring patron; his first day back from vaca he was making a large bowl of champagne sangria for all. The best tomato salad I've had, no menus just chalk boards. Lots of positive vibes, happy employees.
4. Keisuke Matsushima: a young Japanese chef of 32 who has already made a name for himself his six years in Nice, his chosen second home after Tokyo. Nationwide fame already, with new opening in Tokyo recently and one planned for Paris. He's had a star for about three years, with more to come. A rising name on the haute cuisine scene.
5. Chez Pipo: home of the adopted local dish, la socca Nicoise. An institution.
6. Le Safari: an institution with a perfect view on the market. Ari's favorite, although he tells me that he's "lazy" in Nice.
7. Don Camillo: an up an comer, Gault Millaut is hinting at bigger and better things for chef Marc Laville.
8. African Queen (Beaulieu-sur-Mer): very casual, port-side dining. Truffle pizza is the signature dish.

Cold Carrot Soup, Pink Grapefruit & Hazelnuts

Noticed this on the Arbutus menu today so I asked the waiter for some info. Sounds like it could be really delicious.

organic carrots

single cream to taste

quality chicken stock

quality firm green olives (pitted and quartered)

pink grapefruit membrane, segmented and quartered

hazelnuts, toasted

subtle baby herbs (tarragon, cerfeuil)

EVOO

S&P

1. slice carrots in a mandolin with EVOO, S&P
2. place in tray in oven, cook until soft
3. put in blender with warm stock & cream
4. blend until very smooth--make sure not a potage!
5. put through fine sieve twice
6. put in fridge until well chilled, season to taste
7. pour in bowl, add the grapefruit, hazelnuts and olives, all in view (rather than submerged)
8. put a pinch of herbs in the middle

Wine Notes

Toby Kwan, aka Chinovino in the wine trade, provides the following color in response to my question on tannins, more specifically when is too much or too little tannin good? What kind of dishes are tannic wines good with? I personally have a bias against tannins given my preference for lighter, fresher wines although there are some nice tannic cabernet francs from the Loire which come across as light wines.

"I prefer tannin to be generally not too noticeable, but lurking in the background to provide some grip. Tannin is pretty bad for fish (brings out the fishiness) and too much tannin numbs the taste buds, so it’s not good for lighter tasting foods. Some people may differ, but I also don’t like tannic wine with cheese. So for me, the question is the other way around, i.e. when to have more tannin in a wine. Tannins works well with high protein meat (i.e. dark meat), as meat proteins soften the perception of tannins in the mouth. Grilled meats, too, are good, as tannins are usually present in red wine with a perception of toastiness or smokiness (from the oak barrels). One of the most problematic wines for food pairing based on my palate is over-oaked white wine (usually new world chardonnay) with lots of tannins. Too overpowering for seafood, too weak for red meat, you can only really pair them with poultry or woody-tasting vegetables like artichokes, preferably grilled.

Fatty dishes need either a “fat” wine (with lots of body) or conversely a wine with pronounced acidity (not unlike how oil & vinegar can go better together than on their own). Personally I don’t think alcohol is the big issue for fatty dishes, rather I think wines with too much perceptible alcohol interferes with the food tasting (again, numbs the taste buds). Yes, it’s true that alcohol is more perceptible in younger wine which has yet to gain complexity or mellowness."

Paris Bistrot Picks (regularly updated)

A bistrot is one of my favorite things in the world, aside from a nice trattoria. Since I frequently get the question about my favorite Paris bistrots, I thought I'd lay it all out here.

1. La Grille (10th): kind of a tired looking place but very special. Great turbot (faux) grille with beurre blanc nantais, before which you can have their salade aux lardons. Been around forever--well deserved retirement imminent, so catch them while you can!
2. Le Violon d'Ingres (7th): one of my old favorites but has gotten lots of coverage. Very good, the king of basque cuisine christian constant. The pan fried cod with almond crust and capers is excellent. If you're lucky, the cote de veau with morilles will be on the menu too. Or you can lunch at his Cocottes next door if too pricey (he's got two other eateries on the same street!).
3. Auberge Pyrenees Cevennes (11th): the patronne belongs in a circus, she is an absolute maniac (as is her chef husband). Previously a basque bistrot although patronne from lyon so dishes from both regions on offer. Can't go wrong with the cassoulet, raie aux capres. They have a nice light, chilled alsacian pinot noir too.
4. Benoit (4th): although a tourist magnet, will always love it. One of my first bistrot experiences. It has a star, is a Ducasse property, so even if there are lots of Rosbifs and Y Yanks, the food still has to be up to snuff. Favorite is the standard saumon et pomme a l'huile.
5. L'Ami Jean (7th): great Basque and rustic ambiance.
6. Le Comptoir de Relais (6th): worth a lunch--a bit touristy but food good, relaxed, and excellent location on busy odeon area sidewalk where you could sit for hours-has gotten lots of coverage, chef hails from King Constant's kitchen.
7. Gaya (6th): this is Pierre Gagnaire's relaxed bistrot. Ground floor looks like a spaceship but upstairs a bit more conventional. Very delicate, light cuisine. You sense this is an important outlet for the chef as everything is fresh and unfussy.
8. Le Baratin (20th): I love this place, a great vibe, no menu just blackboard, with a grandma plying the stoves in the back. Also very local, and a bit of a hike but worth it.
9. 153 Grenelle (7th): an up and comer. The caramelized foie gras with leek vinaigrette was very memorable.
10. Le Square Trousseau (12th): spacious & airy, with a lovely terrace that gives onto a residential square. Good quality simple fare; what makes the place unusual is that it seems to be run by a lot of young people and has a fresh vibe about it, with not a mustached waiter in sight.
11. L'Ober Sale (11th): was so happy to find this place; sous-chef from Villaret up the street. Small and cozy, youngish crowd. Home-made confitures on the faux-zinc bar. My fish was a little overcooked the one time I've been, but my appetizer was spot on (slow-cooked rolled pork belly).
12. Le Repaire de Cartouche (11th): also well known but seriously good flavors at work. Off the Bastille in a nice split wing bistrot--make sure you sit on the side with the bar.
13. Chardenoux (11th): beautifully re-done and recently taken over by a new team, this is one of Paris' most classic bistrots; attention to quality, a great terrace on a quiet street for summer days.
14. Le Chateaubriand (11th): a bit too hip for its own good, but slick modern/rustic venue; and unusual in that it is a fixed tasting menu --for one and all. I think the chef thinks he's better than he actually is-- going out on the creative limb-- but interesting concepts nevertheless.
15. Spring (9th): I've not eaten here but included it anyway as the young American chef is the talk of the town.
16. La Table d'Eugene (18th): down the street from my aunt's. No ambiance but refined, and extremely local!!

Salad Cigala

A retro salad that I love from La Cigala on Lamb's Conduit Street. Put it on an oval stainless steel platter for maximum effect! All the brined ingredients should be Spanish and are easy to find at Garcia's on Portobello.

sliced bibb lettuce
quarted tomato
best quality tinned tuna in oil
brined asparagus

brined artichoke hearts

brined shredded beets & shredded carrots

halved soft boiled egg
sliced red onion
cracked Green olives
EVOO

white wine vinegar
S&P

1. Put handfuls of above ingredients on platter
2. Serve on individual plates
3. Season to taste with EVOO, vinegar, S&P

Vinaigrette Mamie

Although my grandmother first taught me how to make a vinaigrette many years back, mine has since morphed into a very different consistency resembling that of an emulsified, mustardy mayo. I asked my grandma to reproduce the original this weekend, the vinaigrette my cousins and I fondly remember as dipity-doo (because she would hand out pieces of bread to us which we would then dip into her vinaigrette).

empty jar of bonne maman confiture

2 tbsp amora mustard

70 ml of plain white vinegar (wine vinegar ok)

150 ml corn or sunflower oil

1. mix mustard and vinegar in jar
2. add oil, put cap on jar, shake (depending on who's at the table, you can up the oil --1 vinegar to 3 oil --or about 220 ml)
3. stir in s&p when need to use

Tonight's Dinner

A nice little dinner with Toby & Donna, to keep poor David company.

• radish & butter
• spicy cuttlefish
• olives in brine
• rigatoni alla gricia
• red endives & herby vinaigrette
• gruyere & pumpkin seeds
• sweet summer Italian plums
• Artisan de Chocolat salty caramel pearls
• wine: Rosso Toscana, Perlato del Bosco 2001

Duck a L'Orange Vietnamienne

Watching Rick Stein's Far East Odyssey show, I couldn't help but seek out this Vietnamese recipe. I wonder if my buddy Ari--who loathes duck a l'orange-- might come around to this twist on the original?

2.5 kg duck in pieces
50g garlic, crushed
50g. Peeled ginger, thinly sliced
1 liter freshly squeezed oj
4 tblsp fish sauce
1 tblsp granulated sugar
5 star anise
4 red birds eye chilis
2 lemongrass stalks, finely chopped
Ground black pepper
8 spring onions. White part only, plus one whole for garnish
1/2 tsp cornflour

1. Heat pot on medium to high heat
2. Add duck pieces skin side down , cook 5-6 mins until crisp/golden
3. Turn over, cook another 2 mins
4. Pour out all but 2 tblsp of fat out (save this for another dish)
5. Return pan to low heat, add garlic & ginger, cook gently til golden
6. Add oj, fish sauce, sugar, star anise, chili, lemongrass, ground black pepper
7. Return duck to pan, partially cover & simmer 1.5 hrs, turning pieces of duck over time to time
8. Cut white parts of onion in half, add to duck & cool another 30 mins til duck tender
9. Trim remain spr onion, shred lengthways (green partsy
10. Put duck in serving dish-keep warm
11. Skim excess fat off top of liqui
12. Leave to simmer vigourously until reduced and concentrated in flavor
13. Mi cornflour with 1 tsp water
14. Stir in and simmer for on minute
15. Pour over duck. Scatter with onions

Palma Observations

Some highlights from a couple of good tapas/pinxos bars in Palma, with me posing as food writer to extract the best possible suggestions from waiter/chef.

• Tender pork fillet with aioli pinxos, broiled in oven before serving (Tast)
• Sauteed oyster mushrooms with roquefort sauce (La 5a Puneta)
• Best quality disk of goat cheese, sitting on a smattering of anchovy butter, doused with home-made apple marmelade (Ummo)
• Sweetest tomato pinxos with anchovies & drenched with a minced garlic & parsley EVOO (Ummo)
• Perfectly cooked chicken thigh, prawn & shroom on a skewer with hints of rosemary (Tast)
• Bacon-wrapped octopus on skewer (Tast)
• Octopus & remolacha-hortaliza (Ummo)
• Fried baby leek on pastry at booth 9 bar in the Santa Catalina mercato, preferably for bfast with cafe con leche
• Mini sardine pinxos, on a bed of home-made tomato marmalade, drizzled with chili aioli (Ummo)
• Morcilla de Burgos pinxos, on bed of sliced piquillos & garlic, topped with a quail egg (Ummo)
• Tinto: Bavia 2007 at Tast, Ribero del Duero's Marquez de Vecilca at Ummo

Paris Observations

Some napkin scribbles from various Parisian bistrots:

• sliced fresh mushrooms, yoghurt, tarragon, lemon (Gaya)
• campari-pickled beets, razor clams, cheddar, puree (Gaya)
• a mashed potato with cantal (Gaya)
• Ventadour (Badoit-like water)

Squid Ink Spaghettini with Scallops & Bottarga

Assembled this tonight kind of ad-hoc, and came out quite good.

half pack squid ink spaghettini

EVOO

9 medium size fresh scallops, cut into quarters

bottarga--few tbls

garlic

parsley

chives (a quarter of amount of parsley)

fresh red chili

lemon

white wine

butter

sea salt

poudre de piment d'espelette (cayenne if you must)

1. saute garlic until golden, then add scallops & cook less than thirty seconds, stirring around
2. turn up heat just a tad, add splash of white wine to boil off alcohol, turn heat right back down, let sit, adding a couple thumbnails of butter, sea salt, half the chile, ppd'e
3. when pasta is ready, drain & add to pan, stir in with ingredients
4. add parsley, chives, remaining chili & bottarga, as well as another quick splash of EVOO & salt to taste
5. squeeze a bit of lemon right before serving