Osaka Winter Soup

If such a soup existed, this is how I imagine it would be made. Kind of finger in the air, but tasted fabulous.

a couple apples

parsnips

pumpkin

red onion

shallot

S&P

EVOO

mirin

honey

light miso

chicken stock

1. peel and roughly cut vegetables & apple into rough pieces
2. saute in EVOO for a few minutes
3. add mirin in miso, S&P, honey
4. stir around, let soften for 15 minutes
5. add stock, let simmer for half hour
6. mix in a blender, serve hot

Jakarta Observations

A few latest finds from the capital.

• Bunga Rampai: a lovely old Dutch colonial home restored to perfection; crisp white tablecloths and fine cutlery serving classic Javanese dishes; slow cooked short ribs were a revelation, as was the sour fish soup.
• Shangri La (Japanese restaurant): best potato salad

Scallop Sashimi & Truffle

The tastiest dish on the menu from Hong Kong's Liberty Private Works, graciously provided by the Japanese-Canadian chef. A variation on this is to replace the edamame with peas and add parmesan. I tried the latter and loved it. The bright green pesto looks especially nice on a charcoal colored plate.

freshest scallops

edamame

EVOO

lemon

maldon sea salt

radish

micro herbs

truffle vinaigrette

rice vinegar

dijon mustard

chopped truffle

rapeseed oil

1. make vinaigrette, then edamame pesto by blitzing cooked & cooled edamame, EVOO, salt and squeeze of lemon
2. slice radish extremely thinly with a mandolin
3. slice scallops length-wise in three
4. mix scallops and truffle vinaigrette so well covered; spread pesto out with spoon on plate; place scallops over pesto, place radish over each scallop slice; sprinkle micro herbs over the whole lot

Hong Kong Observations

New discoveries on the island.

• The Chairman: understated but smart, "it's all about the food" restaurant; braised spareribs and preserved plums in caramelized black vinegar came recommended; braised layered beancurd with morels and Chinese mushrooms was very refined, the soy sauce sourced from a reputable shop in Kowloon; and best of all the willingness to serve half portions and refusal to use MSG.
• Liberty Private Works: a 16-seater in Central focusing on Euro-Asian dishes; high quality stuff with favorites including a scallop sashimi with edamane pesto and truffle vinaigrette, prawn & smoked potato with a bacon vinaigrette, and a cream of corn with vanilla foam.

Winter Lentils

The perfect accompaniment for a cotechino or zampone.

chopped carrots, celery, onion, shallots, leeks

sage & bay leaves

home-made chicken stock

creme fraiche

red wine or balsamic vinegar

S&P

1. make soffrito, add lentils
2. when lentils begin to stick, add stock and herbs
3. when al dente and ready, season with S&P, vinegar and creme fraiche to achieve the preferred balance of taste

Tonight's Dinner

Tasty food all around with the Maurins and Bowens.

• radish & butter
• ricotta chili bombs
• celeri remoulade & smoked duck bruschetta
• scallops, buttermilk & yuzu
• vitello tonnato to go
• escargots, mash & girolles
• cotechino, lentils & mostarda
• truffle marscapone-stuffed brie
• endive & herb salad
• macaroons & chocolate mints
  
  

Scamorza & Marjoram

Found this recipe flipping through a Babbo cookbook in Manila.

scamorza

marjoram

sun dried tomatoes

spicy oil

EVOO

fresh chile

red pepper flakes

paprika

1. make spicy oil: simmer EVOO for ten minutes with other ingredients; strain and let cool overnight
2. rub grill with oiled paper towel
3. slice scamorza in two, grill cut side down on the coolest part of the grill
4. slice sun-dried tomatoes into thin strips
5. remove scamorza from grill, sprinkle with sun-dried tomato
6. drizzle with spicy oil
7. sprinkle marjoram on top

Sake Splash

Barman's signature drink at the Cortina in Munich.

300 ml vodka

600 ml sake

120 ml fresh lime juice

600 ml ginger beer

splash of lemonade

100 ml lemongrass syrup

2 cucumber slices

1. shake ingredients well
2. poor over ice, dressed with cucumber

Vitello Tonnato to Go

I love this dish anytime of the year. Normally it is presented carpaccio style on a large serving platter. Here we treat like a canape, all condiments ready to go.

400 gr veal filet

day old sourdough bread

100 gr top quality tinned tuna

aioli

capers

anchovies

parsley

lemon zest

micro herbs

lemon juice

extra capers (tiny ones if possible)

crispy garlic

1. preheat oven to 160 c
2. slice sourdough thinly, lay on baking tray, drizzle with EVOO, season with maldon sea salt, cook until golden brown on both sides
3. reduce oven temperature to 140 c
4. sear filet, place on baking tray, cook ten minutes until medium-rare, let rest 20 minutes
5. slice and fry up garlic until golden
6. make tonnato (use this blog's recipe and include lemon zest)
7. when veal ready, slice thinly
8. spread tonnato on crouton, place veal on top, garnish with garlic on top; add a few capers and sprinke a few herbs on top

Snapper Tartare & Yuzu

Yuzu like yuzu? From one of those Australian canape books, but I forget the name.

250 gr snapper filet

50 ml yuzu juice

1.25 tblsp soy sauce

.5 tsp pepper

.5 tsp grated garlic

6 tblsp grapeseed oil

jalapeno chile, diced

small shisho leaves

1. dice snapper into small cubes
2. put in chilled bowl
3. combine dressing ingredients
4. coat snapper with dressing
5. divide between small glasses, garnish with chile and shiso

Eel, Carrot & Horseradish

This has been on the Le Gavroche menu a long time apparently. I think it is presented in fancy fashion in the restaurant, but I think it probably looks and taste better if presented in a slightly more rustic style. Go generous on the horseradish cream and coriander oil. I've done two things differently from the original recipe, i.e. I've made a horseradish cream using sour cream and creme fraiche rather than whipped single cream; and I've used a regular dijon vinaigrette as opposed to Roux's oil-vinegar-sugar dressing.

1.2 kg smoked eel

2-3 carrots

maldon sea salt

pepper

coriander leaves

groundnut or rapeseed oil

Horseradish Cream

3 tblsp sour cream

2 tblsp creme fraiche

5 tblsp freshly-grated horseradish

chopped chives

1 spring onion, thinly sliced

maldon sea salt

ground pepper

1. grate carrots finely, make sure there are long strands rather than short pellets; season with light dijon vinaigrette; let set for up to 12 hours
2. to make horseradish cream whip cream until stiff, stir in horseradish, spring onion and chill until needed
3. cut eel into diamond shapes
4. drain carrots, reserve liquid
5. blend oil and coriander together
6. put a few tblsp of carrots on a plate
7. arrange eel on top, spoon some cream on the side
8. drizzle lots of coriander oil and carrot liquid around the mound of carrot and eel

London's Most Overrated

In a bad mood. Got a problem with that? Any other suggestions out there?

• Hibiscus
• Launceston Place
• Cambio di Tercio
• Tendido Cero
• Locanda Locatelli
• Ristorante Semplice
• Trattoria Semplice
• York & Albany
• Yauatcha
• Dehesa
• Meditteraneo
• Scott's
• E&O
• Maze
• Nobu