New York Observations

A few more discoveries from a recent trip, centered on Brooklyn! The more things I sample and see, the more I believe that London's St John will have been the key trend setter for the  noughties.

• Marlow & Sons (Williamsburg): part of the mini empire that also includes Reynard, Diner and Achilles Heel, this is cozy little place serves a half dozen dishes du jour. I had grilled cheese and peach sandwich, followed by lively green bean salad.
• Takashi (West Village): currently or was Anthony Bourdain's favorite NY restaurant. Had to give it a try. All about beef from a fourth generation Korean immigrant born in Osaka. The result is bold Korean flavors with the finesse of Japanese cuisine. The signature dish --which I adored--was a Niku-Uni, or seaweed topped with a shisu leaf, chuck flap with sea urchin and fresh wasabi. Pick it up like a taco and dippity-do in some soy sauce. Sally is your aunt!!

Santceloni Veal Shin

From the great Santi Santceloni. I will always remember this truly special dish that Michelle and I had at his famed Restaurante Santceloni in Madrid circa 2005. The great chef has since passed on, so one only hopes that his family is sustaining its great culinary tradition. This is literally the entire veal shin that is cooked and braised over several hours. So simple yet so terrifyingly good.

1 knuckle (or shin) of suckling veal (1.5 kg)
2 onions
2 carrots
2 sprigs thyme
1 head garlic
250 ml white wine
1 liter veal stock
3 tblsp EVOO
half leg of veal bone
100 gr butter
maldon sea salt
pepper

1. tie the knuckle of veal and season with salt and pepper; brown in an ovenproof dish (creuset perfect)
2. add chopped onions, carrots, garlic and herbs and leave to sweat; prevent the onion from burning
3. pour over the white wine and reduce; add 2 liters of veal stock
4. cover and bake in the oven at 80 degrees centigrade for 7-8 hours, checking that the liquid does not evaporate; remove when the meat is tender
5. cut the leg of veal into pieces and brown in the oven; reduce 1 liter of veal stock with the leg of veal; flavor with thyme. The reduction should end up very thick so that it can be used to glaze the meat.
6. remove the knuckle meat from its cooking juices, dry and brown in oil and butter; place in the oven at 220 degrees centigrade to give it a better color and a crisper texture; remove the string
7. glaze with the reduced veal stock and return to oven; repeat this operation until the veal is well glazed all over
8. strain the cooking juices, reduce to the desired consistency, bind with a little butter and season with salt and pepper 

Los Angeles Observations

Digging deeper into this fun city with every trip. Santa Monica's Viceroy hotel was my choice this time, and recommended heartily. Bikes on tap for rides up and down the coast to Venice and Malibu.

• Son of a Gun (West Hollywood): an offshoot from the people at Animal; my best eating in several months. Again, pure and simple stuff, all about combining the fewest possible ingredients and creating something wonderful.  The dish for me was a small plate of burratta and sea urchin, and the crab, daikon and melon dish. Excellent, home-made sodas also on hand, including a ginger beer.
• Tar & Roses (Santa Monica): a fun casual eatery, food isn't refined but perfectly good and rustic.  
• Trois Mec (Melrose): from Ludovic Lefebvre of Ludotrucks fame. Was on my list, but next time. Just 26 seats. Look for Rafallo's pizza sign in the strip mall behind the gas station on the corner of Highland and Melrose. 

Sydney Observations

Some new casual eating discoveries in sunny Sydney from a trip a few months back. 

• Three Blue Ducks: over in Bronte, had a great summer vibe. The chef is ex-Tetsuya; judging by his innovative and delicious but not OTT dishes, this is a man that yearned to branch out and try something new. Farm to plate is the theme. Lunch is casual, the dinner menu more elaborate, but all good. The beet and haloumi salad for lunch was an explosion of fresh flavors, using not just beets but beet puree as a dressing. 
• Hartsyard: a young Brooklyn chef in Sydney; great American comfort food done with a refined palate. The oyster po' boy on an English muffin comes to mind, washed down with a great local red ale. I didn't have the pulled pork, but it was recommended.
• Bodega: an offshoot of Porteno, doing more modern fare and tapping into the tapas/small plates craze. The steamed milk bun, BBQ tongue and crab was lovely. The pork, octopus and cabbage/green apple salad was as intriguing as it sounds. 
• Pendolino: less casual, and good for a business lunch in the CBD if you're craving Italian food. The very low lighting is a plus for some reason.
• Shady Pines Saloon: there's always a line in front of this place after 10 pm; an earlier arrival means immediate entry. Fun ambiance, loud and quirky music.