Sunday 16 August 2009

Paris Bistrot Picks (regularly updated)

A bistrot is one of my favorite things in the world, aside from a nice trattoria. Since I frequently get the question about my favorite Paris bistrots, I thought I'd lay it all out here.

  1. La Grille (10th): kind of a tired looking place but very special. Great turbot (faux) grille with beurre blanc nantais, before which you can have their salade aux lardons. Been around forever--well deserved retirement imminent, so catch them while you can!
  2. Le Violon d'Ingres (7th): one of my old favorites but has gotten lots of coverage. Very good, the king of basque cuisine christian constant. The pan fried cod with almond crust and capers is excellent. If you're lucky, the cote de veau with morilles will be on the menu too. Or you can lunch at his Cocottes next door if too pricey (he's got two other eateries on the same street!).
  3. Auberge Pyrenees Cevennes (11th): the patronne belongs in a circus, she is an absolute maniac (as is her chef husband). Previously a basque bistrot although patronne from lyon so dishes from both regions on offer. Can't go wrong with the cassoulet, raie aux capres. They have a nice light, chilled alsacian pinot noir too.
  4. Benoit (4th): although a tourist magnet, will always love it. One of my first bistrot experiences. It has a star, is a Ducasse property, so even if there are lots of Rosbifs and Y Yanks, the food still has to be up to snuff. Favorite is the standard saumon et pomme a l'huile.
  5. L'Ami Jean (7th): great Basque and rustic ambiance.
  6. Le Comptoir de Relais (6th): worth a lunch--a bit touristy but food good, relaxed, and excellent location on busy odeon area sidewalk where you could sit for hours-has gotten lots of coverage, chef hails from King Constant's kitchen.
  7. Gaya (6th): this is Pierre Gagnaire's relaxed bistrot. Ground floor looks like a spaceship but upstairs a bit more conventional. Very delicate, light cuisine. You sense this is an important outlet for the chef as everything is fresh and unfussy.
  8. Le Baratin (20th): I love this place, a great vibe, no menu just blackboard, with a grandma plying the stoves in the back. Also very local, and a bit of a hike but worth it.
  9. 153 Grenelle (7th): an up and comer. The caramelized foie gras with leek vinaigrette was very memorable.
  10. Le Square Trousseau (12th): spacious & airy, with a lovely terrace that gives onto a residential square. Good quality simple fare; what makes the place unusual is that it seems to be run by a lot of young people and has a fresh vibe about it, with not a mustached waiter in sight.
  11. L'Ober Sale (11th): was so happy to find this place; sous-chef from Villaret up the street. Small and cozy, youngish crowd. Home-made confitures on the faux-zinc bar. My fish was a little overcooked the one time I've been, but my appetizer was spot on (slow-cooked rolled pork belly).
  12. Le Repaire de Cartouche (11th): also well known but seriously good flavors at work. Off the Bastille in a nice split wing bistrot--make sure you sit on the side with the bar.
  13. Chardenoux (11th): beautifully re-done and recently taken over by a new team, this is one of Paris' most classic bistrots; attention to quality, a great terrace on a quiet street for summer days.
  14. Le Chateaubriand (11th): a bit too hip for its own good, but slick modern/rustic venue; and unusual in that it is a fixed tasting menu --for one and all. I think the chef thinks he's better than he actually is-- going out on the creative limb-- but interesting concepts nevertheless.
  15. Spring (9th): I've not eaten here but included it anyway as the young American chef is the talk of the town.
  16. La Table d'Eugene (18th): down the street from my aunt's. No ambiance but refined, and extremely local!!

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