Thursday 5 November 2009

Rome Trattoria Picks

Current top Roman trattoria picks, in order of preference.


  1. Trattoria Felice (Testaccio): the best cacio e pepe I've had (with fresh tonarelli), a gricia that rivals or surpasses that of Macceroni, the best ever tiramisu (well, more of a zabaione with coffee-drenched butter cookies and chocolate sauce). Luckily for us artichokes were in full season, and I've never had better. It's been well covered but I think week day lunch does the trick, still managing to feel local. Testaccio is Les Halles/Smithfields equivalent for Rome, so plenty of food-related things going on ie genuine local food market, and many other local trattorie that we have yet to discover.
  2. La Campagna (Centro Storico): one of my first trattoria discoveries many years ago, and still a favorite; the best antipasti bar I know, especially because of the cornucopia of local greens i.e., chicoria, garlic shoots, broccoli romano, etc etc.
  3. Trattoria Monti (Monti): higher endish Marche rather than Roman trattoria; very well known but still managing to feel no-frills and local. Highlight was a Marche take on a gricia, ie pecorino di Fossa Sogliano al Rubicone instead of Romano; and local Marche crumbled sausage as opposed to guanciale. Michelle also had a ravioli (more of a bonbon) of buttery silky potato mash with tiny dice of guanciale, sauteed in butter & sprinkled with chives. Also as appetizer had a sensational ciauscolo, a softer Marche salami. Asking the owner post meal what his favorite dish of the moment was, he replied: make a traditional spinach, ricotta tortelle but add an egg yolk before you seal the pasta. Boil tortelle, saute in a pan with butter, then shave truffles over them. Mama, mama.
  4. Hostaria da Pietro (Centro Storico): near via Babuino, yet so far. Classic Roman, especially good charcuterie. Although we were there in the evening, feels like it could be a popular place for local business people.
  5. Primo (Pigneto): more a resto than trattoria, borderline creative but doesn't seem to break any rules! A classy joint in a bohemian hood, and does the trick if you want to wander off the gricia path a bit.

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