Sumptuous Mont Blanc

A Mont Blanc recipe inspired by that of FT columnist and Cafe Anglais chef Rowley Leigh.

meringue (good quality store-bought ok)
200 gr double cream
best quality vanilla ice cream

chestnut puree
750 gr vacuum-packed chestnuts
75 light brown caster sugar
sugar
200 ml water
a split vanilla pod (or few drops of extract)

chocolate sauce
10 gr extra bitter chocolate (at least 75%)
150 ml milk
50 ml double cream

1. make chestnut puree by combining sugar and water in saucepan with vanilla and simmer for five minutes; add chestnuts, poach for 15-20 until tender, blend and pass through a sieve to cool
2. make the chocolate sauce by bringing the milk to a boil, then adding the chocolate and stirring off the heat; whisk in the cream and let cool
3. make some whipped cream by mixing until the double cream forms soft peaks
4. let ice cream soften 5-10 minutes
5. to assemble, drizzle some chocolate on plates; scoop some ice cream into each meringue; place chestnut puree in a mouli with a medium mesh, and extrude puree over meringue/ice cream; put a scoop cream on top

Turron Mousse

A simple but original dessert from Brindisa's head chef Jose Pizarro. Make sure you use best quality turron--suprema--and also the soft version which contains mainly almonds.

couple dozen golden raisins
4 tblsp sweet sherry
2 eggs, separated
4 tblsp double cream
150 gr soft turron blando

1. marinate raisins and sherry 24 hours, drain fruit and reserve sherry
2. use food processor to mix together egg yolks, cream, sherry and turron
3. beat egg whites until they form stiff peaks, fold into turron mixture
4. put a few raisins in the bottom of wine glasses, divide the mixture between the glasses and chill a minimum 6 hours

Curry Moules Musclade

A dish that got good reviews in the lead up to our Christmas dinner. Best to use just enough curry to give a subtle flavor, spruced up with a squeeze or two of lemon. Serve with some mouillettes.

small mussels

butter

chopped shallots

chopped garlic

parsley

chives

white wine

creme fraiche

lemon

ground pepper

best quality curry powder

1. saute shallots and garlic in butter until soft
2. add white wine, quantity depending on amount of mussels
3. cover pot and let cook about 5 minutes--give a shake at end to make sure all mussels have opened
4. drain mussels, save sauce and reduce in same pot
5. separate mussels from shells
6. when sauce has reduced to mere half cup, add creme fraiche, pepper and curry to taste
7. when sauce thickens add mussels, and heat another 1 minute or so, adding the herbs at the end, with a squeeze or two of lemon
8. serve in a small shallow bowl, pouring sauce and mussels over a couple mouillettes.

Pork Chops & Celery Apple Remoulade

Did this on the BBQ in Germany, luckily with some choice pork chops from our neighborly butcher shop/abattoir. We marinated the well-marbled chops 48 hours. The Dock gave me the idea for the refreshing, fat-cutting, accompanying remoulade, although I added the apples to lighten it up and because they are such a natural match for the pork. I also replaced the usual home-made mayo with sour cream to lighten the dish further. Good job on the BBQ pops.

best quality pork chops

EVOO

juice of a few lemons

fresh ground pepper

handful of fresh sage

handful of fresh thyme

several cloves of garlic, halved

remoulade

celeriac

green apples, peeled

mustard vinaigrette (using rice & white balsamic vinegar combo)

sour cream (or creme fraiche depending on taste)

chives

parsley

1. in a non-metallic bowl, marinate pork chops 48 hours in the ingredients listed; put enough EVOO and lemon juice in the bowl so that chops are covered half way
2. move around chops a few times during this process so that marinade is well distributed
3. pat dry and grill to your liking
4. serve with remoulade

Tonnarelli Trulli

A nice little concoction from the Puglian chef at Trulli restaurant in my parents' village.

pancetta

mushrooms

peas

canned marzano tomatoes

left over ragu

tonarelli pasta

EVOO

panna

butter

parmesan

1. saute mushrooms in EVOO and butter
2. add pancetta and peas; once pancetta on its way, add a few tblsp of tomatoes, then ragu and finally the panna to taste
3. boil and stir in pasta, serve with parmesan

Frisee & Red Endive Salad

The first time where frisee isn't the leading act in my salad bowl. Mixing some veal broth into the vinaigrette makes all the difference.

frisee, cut into two inch pieces
red endive, sliced into half-inch discs
fresh tarragon, mint, dill
S&P
maille mustard
cider vinegar
EVOO
veal broth (1 tblsp sufficient)

1. toss salads (equal quantities of each ) and (lots) of herbs in bowl
   
2. make vinaigrette using remaining ingredients (note that any home-made broth will do in place of the veal broth)
   

Osso Buco Bianco Spaghetti

A nice warming dish on the coldest night of the year so far....

2-3 garlic cloves
EVOO
leftover sauce from osso buco bianco recipe
spaghetti
S&P
parmesan

1. saute garlic cloves in EVOO
   
2. when scorched, heat up sauce, preferably from a couple days prior (or frozen)
3. boil pasta and drain, stir into pan, cook further 1-2 minutes
4. serve with parmesan, more S&P
   

Grilled Steak & Salsa Verde

Pops, let's do this one.........

8 fillet steaks

8 streaks of pancetta

l large bunch of thyme

1 clove of garlic

1 anchovy fillet

zest of 1 lemon

10 tblsp EVOO

8 portobello mushrooms

S&P

salsa verde

2 cloves garlic

handful of capers

handful of cornichons

6 anchovy fillets

2 large handfuls of parsley

1 handful of basil

1 handful of mint

1 tblsp maille mustard

3 tblsp red wine vinegar

8 tblsp EVOO

S&P

1. tie up stalk end of thyme, place leafy end in a pestle and mortar and give it a good bash (this removes the tasty leaves and leaves you with what looks like a mini broom)
2. add garlic, lemon zest, anchovy fillet to the mortar; bash to a paste and stir in EVOO
3. fillet steaks should be 1 inch thick, at least; wrap bacon around each steak and secure loosely with string
4. peel mushroom skins off (helps them absorb marinade); brush steaks and mushrooms with marinade, keeping the rest for the cooking
5. season meat on both sides with S&P, place on grill with mushrooms
6. turn every minute and brush each time with the thyme brush; the mushrooms will be cooked after about 6 minutes
7. once beef cooked to your liking, remove string, divide steaks between 8 warmed plates with mushrooms, allow to rest for 2 minutes and put a big dollop of salsa verde over the top

Tortellini Bolognese in Brodo

Wanted to make note of this one for the broth. The first time I use beef shin, combined with an old hen, simmered for 12 hours. Ideally capon could be used, but sets you back a pretty penny. The parcel fillings are "typical" Bolognese in that there is a combination of poultry and pork but more importantly the requisite mortadella. Although no nona will have the same recipe, naturally!

pork loin

turkey breast

mortadella

prosciutto

parmesan

nutmeg

butter

brodo

capon, or old hen

beef shin, half severed to expose marrow

bay leaf

handful of parsley

S&P

1. make tortellini using above filling, preferably with Italian eggs (or eggs that have an orange yolk)
2. when broth is done, season to taste with S&P
3. gently boil tortellini in salt water until nearly done, finish off in the broth by removing with a slotted spoon
4. serve with parmesan and drizzle of best quality EVOO and a bit more pepper, if you like

Rosemary Truffle Honey

Contemplating the week's work over a glass of Otonal at my local Galicia, I conjured up this mixture, which actually came out quite nicely. Probably better with hard cheese although went down a treat with the bosina.

acacia honey (Seggiano has a nice one)

fresh rosemary

white truffle oil (don't bother with black)

1. in a ramekin, pour 5-6 tblsp of honey
2. add a half tsp of finely minced rosemary needles
3. add a quarter tsp (or more if desired) truffle oil
4. mix all ingredients and let seep a few hours before using

Tonight's Dinner

A lovely cold winter night's Italian menu for the Letondots and Maurins. I was happy with the 12 hour tortellini broth made from an old hen and quality beef shin. Wrapping apples in San Daniele a good way forward. Also never forget when buying osso buco to lasso in the remaining shin to use in broth for the risotto Milanese. Particularly fond of this osso buco, an old River Cafe recipe that does away with the distracting tomatoes and makes use of anchovies to give the dish an added roundedness. Pleasant surprise was the rosemary-truffle honey.

bresaola bombs

san daniel wraps

home-made tortellini in brodo

osso buco bianco & risotto Milanese

frisee, tarragon, mint, dill salad

bosina & rosemary-truffle honey

Princi Salt Beef Salad

I've been having this at Princi's London outpost on Wardour Street. I asked them if this was a typical Milanese dish and apparently it is not. Whatever the origin, it's a nice way to lighten up a serving of salt beef. I've not put exact measurements, but each of the ingredients have approximately the same proportion.

salt beef, cut into quarter to half-inch cubes

dalleggio, cut into cubes same size as beef

pitted green olives, chopped

tiny capers, whole

cornichons, chopped

peas, boiled and cooled

artichokes in oil (without seasoning)

pickled mixed mushrooms (saw some small Japanese mushrooms)

best quality, sweet cherry tomatoes, quartered

EVOO, to taste

balsamic vinegar, just a couple drops

S&P

1. mix all together
2. dress with EVOO and vinegar, seasoning

Chipolatas & Mustard Mayo

Maybe because I was starving, but these hit the spot hard. I asked the kiwi cook at The Electric what he did, and I think this is what he said.

small best quality chipolatas links

worcestershire sauce

butter

home-made mayo & grain mustard mixed

1. saute sausages in pan
2. once they are browning, add a few tblsp of worcestershire sauce, then butter to taste to make a nice emulsified sauce
3. pour the whole lot into a small plate, place a small ramekin of the mustard mayo on the same plate

Tuna Tartare & Wasabi Ice Cream

I think this was one of the better dishes at last night's annual xmas dinner (see Bistro Ari & David Christmas Menus post). Mix at the table, just like steak tartare in a restaurant! I've tried many ways and must say that Nobu's recommendation to add just a bit of mashed garlic makes all the difference in perking up the otherwise blandish raw tuna. Could add some lime rind to the tartare, if you wish.

tuna

best quality EVOO

maldon sea salt

soy sauce

red chile, minced

coriander leaves, chopped

chives, chopped

shallots, minced

garlic, mashed with salt

wasabi ice cream

2 egg yolks

1 tsp sugar

250 ml creme fraiche

10 ml whole milk

S&P

1 tsp natural wasabi powder

1. make wasabi ice cream by first boiling milk and cream, season with S&P; meanwhile beat egg and sugar until it becomes white and doubles; slowly add hot milk and cream to egg mixture, then the wasabi, while mixing and let cool; put in ice cream maker; take out from freezer 10 minutes before serving so that ice cream softens a little.
2. cut tuna into small cubes, put in freezer 10 minutes before use
3. mix pureed garlic with EVOO
4. place tuna in a bowl, set on ice in another bowl, and add all condiments to taste; stir thoroughly
5. fill a glass with 2-3 spoonfuls of tuna, followed by a spoonful of ice cream and serve (ice cream should not be runny)

Poulet Harissa Mayonnaise

A take on the traditional poulet roti mayonnaise, the only difference is that we add some harissa to the home-made mayo. Could even be a good quality French or Spanish commercial mayo. If you don't have left-over chicken, some good quality roast chicken slices (thick) works just fine. This with a little green salad, coriander leaves and a mustardy vinaigrette and maybe some pain poilane?

left over roast chicken

harissa (only one brand will do--will confirm)

home-made mayo (with Italian eggs)

1. mix 1 part harissa, 2 parts may (even 1 to 1 if you want it lighter and spicier)
2. put a small ramekin on your plate with chicken, salad, bread etc.

Prosciutto Cotto & Pesto

I made a very nice pesto with some aged pecorino the other day. I cannot believe how tasty pesto and top quality ham is together. Prosciutto has to be cotto.

prosciutto cotto (or Jambon de Paris)

pesto

1. smear pesto on slice of prosciutto
2. roll up, slice into one inch rounds, skewer with toothpicks

Jambon & Fromage Frais

Something I had at a cocktail chez les Penots last night. According to the hostess, these were the ingredients.

best quality jambon de paris

fromage frais

cornichons, chopped

chives

S&P

1. mix everything together and smear on a slice of ham
2. roll up, slice into one inch rounds, skewer with toothpicks

Zabaione Felice

Michelle's delicious zabaione, inspired by Rome's Felice Trattoria and according to Gambero Rosso voted 6th best tiramisu in Italy! But it's not a tiramisu. It's really important to do it with Italian eggs that have the same yolk color as the Blogger logo.

Zabaione

2 egg yolks

2 tbsp fine caster sugar

vanilla extract

1/3 cup double cream

langues du chats - crumbled

top quality espresso

chocolate sauce

85% dark chocolate - 1/2 bar broken

double cream

1. whisk egg yolks, sugar and vanilla extract over simmering water until double in size, up to 15 minutes (don't stop and don't let it boil)
2. remove from heat and continue to whisk in a bowl of ice water or sink filled with a bit of cold water, until it cools off
3. whisk double cream to soft peaks
4. fold into zabaione
5. to assemble, in a wine or martini glass, break up 1/2-1 langue du chat and pour in some espresso that has cooled to room temperature (do not soak or biscuits will disintegrate); fill each glass with zabaione mixture and cover with cling film
6. place in fridge to set at least an hour
7. for chocolate sauce, melt chocolate pieces and double cream (not much) in a double boiler until it becomes a sauce; set aside until cools to room temperature
8. right before serving, drizzle a bit of chocolate sauce on top of each and serve

Treacle-Cured Salmon

Can't wait to make this, stolen from Pascal Aussignac's new cookbook.

500 gr skinned/boned salmon fillet
250 gr coarse sea salt
5 tblsp black treacle

1. sprinkle fish with salt and let chill 2-3 hours in a shallow dish
2. drain, pat dry, cut into 2 cm cubes
3. mix with treacle, marinate 10 minutes, strain again
4. put fish on tray and flash grill for a minute or until charred
5. serve skewered

Regal Shrimp Cocktail

Marie Rose sauce is a very viable alternative to the usual horseradish-spiked sauce!

best quality prawn

home-made mayo (250 ml)

1 tblsp ketchup

1 tblsp worchestershire sauce

1 tblsp cognac

1 tblsp sherry

dash of tobasco

squeeze of lemon

pinch of paprika

1. make the mayo, preferably with Italian eggs
2. stir in other ingredients
3. cook prawns as desired, arrange in a cocktail glass & add sauce

Caesar Wedge

For all of you born-again iceberg lettuce fans. What better way to have it than with some Caesar dressing? The alternative to below recipe, actually, would be to replace the Caesar dressing with the roquefort mousse and lay a sliver of grilled streaky bacon on top.

iceberg lettuce, cut into large (quarter grapefruit size) wedges

1 garlic clove

1 tbsp maille mustard

1 tbsp white wine vinegar

S&P

2 tblsp home-made mayo (or Hellman's if you insist)

3 anchovy fillets

4 tblsp EVOO

1 tblsp parmesan

dash worchestershire sauce

squeeze lemon juice

chives, chopped

1. make dressing by blending garlic, mustard, vinegar, salt to taste
2. add mayo, anchovies, parmesan, EVOO, worchestershire sauce then lemon juice while still blending
3. distribute one wedge per plate and poor lots of the caesar dressing all over the place
4. sprinkle chives generously, a turn or two of the pepper mill