Scandi Snackie

My creation although admittedly not very original! The crispiness of cracker combined with chewiness of the salmon, along with the other classic flavor combos, works nicely. Make a dinner out of them, with a crispy green salad and tangy vinaigrette to accompany.

ryvita crackers
smoked salmon
creme fraiche
horseradish (fresh)
dill
butter
lemon rind
juice of lemon
salt

1. mix 1 part horseradish to 5 parts creme fraiche, squeeze lemon juice and add salt to taste
2. break crackers up into bite size pieces
3. spread butter on cracker
4. layer with slice of salmon
5. sprinkle lemon rind
6. squeeze tad of lemon juice
7. put a spoonful of creme fraiche mixture on top
8. sprinkle fresh dill

Celery Remoulade & Crispy Pancetta

One of my favorites. Both textures are crunchy, the celery root with a nice acidic dressing and the pancetta with a pleasing, salty fattiness. Perfect with some chilled gamay, and crusty baguette. Many variations, i.e., the addition of grated green apples to lighten it up, or adding capers to give it a nice twang (don't mix apples and capers though).

celeriac, grated in long thin strips (mandolin best)
lemon
vinaigrette of red wine vinegar, olive oil, dijon mustard, whole grain mustard, salt and pepper to taste
home-made mayonnaise, with squeeze of lemon
creme fraiche
S&P
parsley & chives
pancetta strips
EVOO

1. grate the celery root, squeeze a bit of lemon and mix to prevent from discoloring
2. mix in vinaigrette to loosen up, let set 6 hours
3. make mayonnaise, add to celery to taste
4. mix in creme fraiche to taste (about a tblsp)
5. chop lots of the herbs, add to celery
6. fry up pancetta til crispy but chewy
7. put celery remoulade on plate, top with a couple pancetta strips
8. drizzle olive oil, couple turns of the pepper mill

Ham Hock Terrine & Piccalilly

Something I've been wanting to make for a long time. Given to me by Mark Hix's PA. Seems like this dish is appearing on every other gastropub's menu these days, but I trust that Hix' recipe is best, which is why I asked for it. There's the more traditional version that I love and grew up with, jambon persille & mustard, and better yet although a lot different, fromage de tete (would need to check with HQ before I boil a pig head in the house though). It's possible that one can get away with using the calf foot because the hamhock lets off some natural gelatin. I might hesitate as one risks losing flavor this way. A leftover idea is to shove pieces of the terrine between two best quality pieces of bread/bun, smother with piccalilli and a few lettuce leaves (inspired by a ham and piccalilli sandwich I had at John Torode's new resto, Luxe, at Spitafields).

1 ham hock, 1 kg, soaked overnight in cold water

a few sprigs of thyme

1 bay leaf

2 medium onions, peeled & quartered

3 celery stalks

10 black peppercorns

9g (3 sheets of) gelatine (or a calf foot)

2 tblsp chopped parsley

piccalilli

1 med cucumber, halved lengthwise and deseeded

1/2 large head of cauliflower, cut into small florets then halved

1 onion, peeled and cut into large dice

1 tbsp salt

150 g caster sugar

65 g English mustard

1/2 tsp ground termeric

1 small chilli, deseeded & finely chopped

150 ml malt vinegar

125 ml of white wine vinegar

1 level tbsp cornflour

1. at least a week ahead, make the piccalilli: cut the cucumber in half again lengthwise, then cut into 1 cm pieces; put them in a dish with the cauliflower and onion, then sprinkle with salt; leave for 1 hour, then rinse well in cold water and drain in a colander.
2. in a saucepan, mix the sugar, mustard, turmeric, chilli and the two vinegars then bring to the boil and simmer 2-3 mins.
3. meanwhile, mix the cornflour with 150 ml water, whisk into the vinegar mixture and continue to simmer gently for another 5 minutes. Mix the hot liquid with the vegetables and leave the mixture to cool. Store in the fridge in sterilized Kilner jars for at least a week before use and up to 6 months.
4. put the hock into a saucepan with the rest of the ingredients except the gelatine and parsley; bring to the boil and simmer for about 2 hours, until the hock is tender (the cooking time may vary according to the cut and size. Remove from the liquid and leave to cool.
5. skim off any fat. For a hock this size you will need to remove about 350 ml of the cooking liquid to ensure it sets; however, a hock will generally produce more natural gelatine so add one less sheet of gelatine if using hock.
6. soak the gelatine leaves in a shallow bowl of cold water for a minute or so until soft. Squeeze out the water and add to the hot cooking liquor with the parsley and stir until dissovled. Leave somewhere to cool, but don't let it set.
7. meanwhile, cut the hame into rough 1 cm cubes, removing any fat and put it in a bowl. Mix in a little of the cooled stock and pack into either a suitable-sized terrine mould or a similarly-shaped rectangular container. Top up with the remaining stock.
8. cover with cling film, and leave to set in fridge over night.
9. to serve, briefly--about 15 seconds-- dip the terrine into a bowl of boiling water and then turn it upside down onto a chopping board to turn out.
10. with a carving knife, cut into 2 cm thick slices & serve with spoonful of piccalilli

Wine Notes

I've always been fond of young, fresh and chilled French gamays. There are other, less obvious red wines that are also great chilled, some as far south as Puglia. This list will grow, as I will add as I discover more:

• Bardolino, Monte del Fra (Veneto)
• Fichimori, Tormaresca-Antinori (Puglia): 100% negroamaro
• Pallavicini Rubillo Cesanese 2008 (Lazio)
• Alois Lageder Sudtirol 2006 (Alto Adige): 100% Pinot Nero
• Barbera del Monferrato, La Briosa Montalbera (Piedmonte): 100% Barbera
• Wein, R&A Pfalffl, a blend of zweigelt and pinot noire from Austria

Tuna Tartare Umu

Ingredients as far as I understood from the Brazilian sushi chef at Umu. A bit on the busy side, but determined to reproduce and refine below after a couple more calls.

tuna--toro if you can (300 gr)

black sesame seeds (1 tsp)

soy sauce light (20 ml)

shiso cress (12 leaves)

shallot (50 gr)

pickled ginger (50 gr)

whole grain mustard (1 tsp)

ken (daikon julienne)

ichimi pepper (pinch)

quail egg (4)

salt (pinch)

black pepper (pinch)

red onion (50 gr)

cashew nuts (20 gr)

nikiri sauce (20 ml)

garnish

thinly sliced fried leek

sliced fried garlics

sliced fried lotus roots

shiso vinaigrette

light olive oil flavored with cinnamon, star anise, black & white pepper

rice vinegar

sesame oil

minced shiso leaf

1. chop tuna into 5 mm cubes; mix with chopped shallots, finely chopped pickled ginger, ichimi pepper, 15 gr finely chopped cashews, one pinch of salt, black sesame, one pinch of black pepper, olive oil, wholegrain mustard and the soy sauce.
2. on the plate, dress a bed of shiso cress leaves and nicely set the tuna on top; add shredded red onion and daikon julienne.
3. sprinkle 5 gr of finely chopped cashew, ichimi pepper and nikiri sauce around the tuna
4. (optional): rest a half shell of quail egg with yolk only on bed of wet salt; add yolk when serving, let guests mix egg into tuna

note: looking at another variation of above using shiso vinaigrette and garnish

Cabbage, Anchovy & Chili Spaghetti

We were quite happy with this throw together pasta, perfect for an early autumn dindin.

spaghetti, preferably darker wheat, or kamut or spelt

young cabbage

red chili, 1 week-dry

garlic

tin of anchovies

chicken stock

EVOO

black pepper

1. saute sliced garlic & minced chili, then melt the anchovies
2. slice up cabbage as finely as possible with a mandolin, add to pan and let saute about 10 minutes
3. add about half cup of chicken stock, stir from time to time until mostly but not all evaporated (don't want it too dry)
4. cook pasta, drain, add to pan with a couple tblsp pasta water, stir so that pasta is well coated
5. add EVOO, bit of ground black pepper and serve

San Daniele Ham & Apple Salad

Inspired by a recipe from NYC's Babbo restaurant.

best quality San Daniele prosciutto

assortment of good quality apples, preferably tart and crunchy

EVOO

1 tblsp cider vinegar

S&P

1 tsp lemon

bundle of chives

1. cut apples into batons, squeeze lemon juice on apples to prevent coloring
2. make vinaigrette, chop chives and toss with apple batons
3. lay ham out on wooden platter, serve with a bowl of apple salad on the side

Vanilla Yoghurt & Pomegranate Seeds

Not a recipe but sensational! M&S sells pomegranate ready-picked so no need to bother with doing it yourself.

good quality vanilla yoghurt

pomegranate seeds

1. put yoghurt in a glass
2. add a handful or more of pomegranate seeds (equal parts of each fine too!)

Shaved Radish, Celeriac & Pecorino with Pomegranates & Truffle Oil

The Boca di Lupo staple appetizer, on their menu since day one. The very kind chef, ex-Moro Jacob Kenedy, gave me the recipe as I sat at the counter a few months ago. Key ingredient is the black radish--no guarantee that you can even get it at Borough market. Still pretty good without it though.

black radish

red radish

celeriac

pomegranate seeds

flat leaf parsley

pecorino romano

EVOO

white balsamic vinegar

white truffle oil (to taste, couple drops)

S&P

1. slice radishes with mandolin as thinly as possible (taste black radish, if it's too hot soak in ice cold water for 15 mins).
2. slice celeriac very thin as well--best to use a vegetable peeler
3. in a big bowl, toss together all the ingredients and 1/3 of the shaved pecorino, with EVOO, vinegar, S&P
4. assemble on plates, shave more cheese on top, sprinkle more pomegranate seeds

Grilled Puff Balls & Salsa Verde

This got the best review at dinner last night. Seriously tasty and unlike any mushroom we've had before. Had to trek to Borough market to find them, and they're only available during September. I remember riding my bike as a kid in the forests in Germany, and they were everywhere!

puff balls

parsley

one or any combo of basil, tarragon, chives (your taste)

grilled garlic, mashed

capers

red wine vinegar

dijon mustard

EVOO

S&P

1. cut puff balls into half inch slices
2. put in large bowl, douse with EVOO, S&P
3. heat stove top grill very hot
4. make green sauce by chopping up herbs, capers, garlic & mixing in EVOO, vinegar, mustard, S&P
5. grill puff balls on both sides until you see brown grill marks--add S&P as you go
6. serve on a plate, spoon green sauce on top

Tonight's Dinner

A tasty dinner for newlyweds Mark and Gaia, who are off to Singapore.

negroni sbagliato

mozzarella, chili, marjoram, lemon rind & creme fraiche

san daniele ham & apple salad

radish, celeriac, pomegranate, pecorino & truffle oil vinaigrette

grilled puff balls & green sauce

rigatoni a la gricia

oven dried fig, young pecorino, dessert wine

finely sliced raddichio & rucola salad

frozen muscat grapes, artisan du chocolat tablets, dessert wine

Cockley Cley Chicken

Ali Maurin made this comforting dish for us at her family's picture perfect home in Norfolk. A lovely weekend lunch dish in that you can pop it in the oven before your morning errands, ready on your return. Serve with salad and fresh bread.

chicken pieces (thighs and legs for flavor)

flageolet beans

onion

garlic

lemon juice & zest

chicken stock

S&P

fresh thyme

1. brown chicken pieces in oil, transfer to an ovenproof dish
2. soften a chopped onion in the same frying pan and add to dish
3. put pre-cooked or tinned flageolet beans in the dish with the onion and add peeled cloves of garlic, juice of lemon (quantity depending on amount of chicken or to taste) and some zest
4. add some chicken stock
5. sprinkle finely chopped thyme, S&P
6. cover tightly and bake very slowly for 1-2 hours at 160 c

Home-Made Mayo Varieties

Scribbles from a Tyler Florence book a few years back when I was obsessed with making mayo. Still am. Generally speaking the additional ingredients must be blitzed so that they blend in smoothly with mayo.

arugula, orange zest & almond mayo

roasted garlic, anchovy & capers mayo

curry, orange zest, mint & peanuts mayo

sweet pepper, fennel, paprika mayo (saute 1st two with saffron)

lemon & caper mayo

Coq au Vin Mamie

Another discovery in my piles of papers tonight. A fax from 6 September 1996--almost 13 years ago to the day--from my aunt in Paris to my office in Singapore. I had asked her to ring my grandmother for her coq au vin recipe that I obviously needed quickly for one of our faux winter dinner parties. Apparently my grandmother had resisted sharing the recipe given the futility of locating a rooster in Singapore. Of course she was right, so we had to settle for a firm chicken. I've retyped it here, word for word.

1 coq de 1.5 kg

50 gr beurre

100 g lard de poitrine fume

1/2 litre bon vin rouge

2 cuilleres a soupe de cognac

2 oignons

2 gousses ail

2 cuilleres a souple de farine

bouquet garnie

sel et poivre

1. faire revenir les morceaux de coq
2. ajouter les oignons en rondelles
3. saupoudrer de farine, melanger
4. arroser de cognac et faire flamber
5. couvrir de vin rouge
6. ajouter sel et poivre, ail, bouquet garni
7. porter a ebullition
8. couper le lard en des, mettre les des dans une casserole d'eau froide et faire bouillir 5 minutes pour enlever l'exces, bien egoutter et ajouter dans la cocotte
9. laisser cuire 1 heure ou meme 1 heure et demi selon l'age du coq

Notable Meals

From Great Queen Street the other day, with a 37.5 of chilled Beaujolais.

grilled puff balls with salsa verde

ham hock & foie gras terrine

green salad with mint & coriander vinaigrette

freshly-baked bread & butter

Norwegian Delight

A little number I remember from --must have been 2002 or something-- a dinner with Wilhelm and his Norwegian friends. One of the wives had made this, and I remember it being so fresh and fishy and delicious. I recently served it on an endive leaf- looked pretty and tasted good too.

sour cream (thick)

red onion chopped very finely

tiny cooked prawn, halved

smoked salmon, chopped

dill

S&P

small lettuce leaf (escarole)

1. mix all ingredients together
2. put in fridge to thicken
3. serve on cooled, toasted bread
4. lettuce leaf (I think this was on top not between bread and topping!)

Bistrot Ari & David Christmas Menus

I'm digging them up and posting them here, in reverse order. That means this year's our 7th annual, like Manou!

Christmas 2009

Champagne

Greek Pissaladiere

Jowl Bacon, Kimchi Apple & Maple Labneh

Mackerel, Rhubarb Compote, Horseradish

Tuna Tartare & Wasabi Ice Cream

Lemon Chitarra & Prawn Brains

Skate Wing & Crushed Crab Potatoes

Curry Mussel Musclade

Parmesan Polenta & Truffled Brandade de Morue

Pan-Fried Foie Gras & Caramelized Leeks

Celeriac, Radish, Pomegranate & Truffle

Slow-Cooked Pig Cheek Ravioli

Melon Granita & Basil Soup

Goose & Hay, Prune & Chestnut Stuffing

Dill, Tarragon, Mint & Mixed Leaves

Caerphilly, Michelle's Oat Biscuits, Red Pepper Chutney

Zabaione da Felice

Coffee/Digestif & Jule's Truffles

Christmas 2008

Champagne Cocktail

Carrot & Lemongrass Shot

Wild Icelandic Salmon & Celeri Remoulade

Scallop & Morcilla w/ Jerusalem Artichoke Mash

Bacon, Trotter & Prune on Foie Gras Toast

Cod Cheeks with Green Peppercorn Sauce

Beetroot Gazpacho & Avocado Sorbet

Pheasant Saltimbocca & Confit w/ Vacherin Potatoes

Mac & Truffle Cheese

Oxtail & Quail Egg on Toast

Bouillabaisse David

Mango Carpaccio

Canon of Lamb & Yam

Treacle Tart with Vanilla Bourbon Ice Cream

Coffee & Shortbread

Digestif

Christmas 2007

Waterloos & Champagne

Hapsburg Beet & Date Caviar

Thoroddsson-Caught Salmon w/Horseradish Cream

Coquilles St Jacques Nobu Style

Marrow & Herb Salad on Toast

Shroom Stroganoff

Fancy Cream of Corn, Burnt Nut Oil

Foie Gras Bonbon

Helix Pomatia Mar & Montunya

Home-Made Fontina & Porcini Cappelletti, Sirloin Brodo

Pepper-Crusted Black Cod with Teriyaki Reduction

Ice-Cold Cavaillon Carpaccio

18 Hour Beef with 2 Anti-Cuchos

Salad Exotique Redux

Bruno's Surprise

Roasted Vanilla-Infused Pineapple, Citrus Mascarpone

Stilton & Port

Coffee, Fresh Mint Tea

Macaroons

Digestif

Christmas 2005

Cocktails

Sevruga Caviar Versailles Style

Chestnut-Wild Mushroom Veloute w/Horseradish Marscapone & Hazelnut Oil

Dressed Kamchatka Crab & Sweet Corn Ice Cream

Tuna Ribbons, Radish & Aromatic Chili Oil from the Bund

Pan-Fried Baby Red Mullet with Umeboshi Plum Cream

Red Grape & Lime Slush

Truffled Bacalao Raviolini in Broth

Heston's Snail Porridge

Cucumber Tarragon Salad Kazakh Style

Basil Lemongrass Soda

Smoked Puffin & Duck with Persimmon Jelly

Oxtail Tatin with Coffee Tomato Confit

Icelandic Meatballs with Rhubarb Chutney

Daylesford Penyston Cheese & Yuzu Salad

Bitter Chocolate Ice Cream Catalonia Style

Cafe, The, Infusion

Digestif

Christmas 2003

Beet Tartare

Potato Ravioli

Ricotta Chili Bomb

Scallop & Cauliflower in Caper-Raisin Sauce

Surf & Turf Bouchee a la Reine with Pernod Cream

Celeriac Parmentier with Foie Gras, Truffle, Sweet Gnocchi

Petits Haricots Verts Salad with Laguiole

Loup de Mer Madagascan Vanilla Essence

Mango Mambo de Tito Puente

Saltimbocca Polynesienne

Mixed Herb Salad

Selection of English Cheeses

Choco-Coffee Parfait

Cafe, The, Infusion

Petits Fours

Digestives

Salmon Tartare Nicoise

Although there isn't anything particularly Nicoise about this--the salmon for one--the recipe is a hand me down from the chef at Flaveur, one of Nice's coolest restos. Chef worked at Sketches in London prior to opening Flaveur, and rather understatedly claimed that former boss Pierre Gagnaire was "a very good chef".

top quality salmon filet

coarse sea salt

baby scallions

fresh coriander

juice of lime

zest of lime

soy sauce

EVOO

black radish (sliced thinly thru mandolin)

fennel shoots

1. coat salmon with salt, let sit for 10-15 minutes, rinse off and pat dry
2. chop salmon into small cubes
3. add juice of lime
4. mix in finely chopped scallions, coriander
5. add zest, few drops of soy sauce, EVOO
6. dress radish with EVOO and salt
7. mound up the tartare, dress with fennel shoots, adjoin with a few slices of radish

Mackerel Rillettes & Toasted Sesame

One of Keisuke Matshushima's appetizers. He calls for 100g of butter; I think we can get away with 50g-75g.

1 liter of home-made veggie stock

300g mackerel

100g best quality Normandy butter

30g of white sesame

1. cook the mackerel in stock very delicately
2. drain fish, blend with butter until nice paste
3. pan fry sesame seeds until just golden, add in
4. serve on a spoon or cracker

Cote d'Azur Resto Picks

The concentration of young, inspired and modern cooking is to be found in Nice. I only ate at a handful of these places but have ranked them based on feedback & insights from others.

1. La Part des Anges: a wine store with a few tables set haphazardly and a tiny kitchen in the back. An amazing concept and surprising we don't see it more often.
2. Flaveur: ex-Sketches/Gagnaire chef doing modern twists with Provence ingredients
3. Le Bistrot d'Antoine: a delicious bistrot with an animated and caring patron; his first day back from vaca he was making a large bowl of champagne sangria for all. The best tomato salad I've had, no menus just chalk boards. Lots of positive vibes, happy employees.
4. Keisuke Matsushima: a young Japanese chef of 32 who has already made a name for himself his six years in Nice, his chosen second home after Tokyo. Nationwide fame already, with new opening in Tokyo recently and one planned for Paris. He's had a star for about three years, with more to come. A rising name on the haute cuisine scene.
5. Chez Pipo: home of the adopted local dish, la socca Nicoise. An institution.
6. Le Safari: an institution with a perfect view on the market. Ari's favorite, although he tells me that he's "lazy" in Nice.
7. Don Camillo: an up an comer, Gault Millaut is hinting at bigger and better things for chef Marc Laville.
8. African Queen (Beaulieu-sur-Mer): very casual, port-side dining. Truffle pizza is the signature dish.