Squid, Maitake, Thyme

I had this the other night at one of my favorite HK restos, Ronin. Incredibly simple and for some reason, at least from what I recall, mushroom and squid is not a pairing I've done before. Maybe I loved it because it transported me back to Barcelona. Happily I ran into Matt the chef at the supermarket today, and he happily gave me the recipe.

maitake mushrooms
young squid
butter
maldon sea salt
soy sauce
sake
thyme
minced garlic

1. saute mushrooms with butter, season; press down with spatula so that they brown a bit
2. move mushrooms aside, grill squid
3. add some soy sauce and sake at the end and serve with just a few minced thyme leaves (or tempura thyme)

My Sicily Pesto

Inspired by a recent visit, but also confined to what was in the fridge! Such self-satisfaction using the last bits of leftovers to make something so tasty! Serve with some grated parmesan, if you like.

a bunch of rucola
some parsley
handful of almonds
2-3 walnuts
3-4 anchovies
3 tblsp of capers
sprinkle of chili pepper (or piment de l'espelette)
8-10 sultanas
lemon zest
squeeze of lemon
3/4 clove garlic
maldon sea salt
lots of EVOO

1. put all ingredients in mixer and blitz, adding enough EVOO so that it becomes smooth 
2. boil pasta, reserve some pasta water
3. put pesto in pan on very low heat for a few seconds, add pasta water, then pasta and mix

Bistro Singapore

The cooking event of the year with my brutha Toby Kwan! Lots of fun and sun in Singapore!

• avocado whip & salmon eggs
• sea urchin shooters
• apple salad, bacon & maple labneh
• crab, grapefruit and truffle vinaigrette
• scallop sashimi, yuzu & shiso
• prawn & black tea
• calamari carbonara
• spicy pulled pork, scallion-ginger relish, kimchi sauce
• veal agnoletti & walnut sauce
• sous-vide ribeye, osso buco sauce, garden veg
• blue cheese, lemon zest, amareno cherries, basil
• thai basil and lemongrass sorbet, lime aroma
• chocolat tart, coconut sorbet, brutti ma buoni

Tonight's Dinner

A fun meal from a few weeks ago with the Hoffmans and our surprise guest Hubert.

• buried radish (in herby cottage cheese)
• oven-dried tomatoes & yellow pepper coulis
• beetroot caviar on crisps
• cucumber with cream & tarragon
• grated carrots & mimolette
• celeri remoulade & smoked salmon
• scallops in their shell, Nobu-style
• lasagnette pesto
• black pepper black cod with balsamic reduction
• ricotta & home-made chili jam
• home-made pistachio ice cream & chocolate cookies

Sicilian Wines

A few lovely wines to remember from Sicily, the main discovery being the Burgundy-like Nerello Mascalese wines from Etna.

• Occhipinti Il Frappato (2010): Frappato from Cerasuolo di Vittoria
• Passopiciaro (2008): Nerello Mascalese from Etna
• Tenuta delle Terre Nere (2009): Nerello Mascalese from Etna
• Benanti Pietramarina (2006): Carricante from Etna
• Vivera Salisire (2010): Carricante from Etna

Sicily Observations

Some places to remember and recommend in Sicily.

• Modica: La Locanda del Colonnello for finocchettio selvatico & anchovy spaghetti
• Noto: Trattoria del Crocifisso for modern yet restrained renditions of the classics
• Ragusa: Duomo for higher end dining but the chef's urge to overwork his dishes leaves you craving for simple trattoria fare; a Rusticana was a hole in the wall and I had my doubts given the look of the place, but the vegetable antipasti was my favorite of the trip. 
• Marina de Ragusa: Trattoria Carmelo was probably my favorite of the trip with its simple, beach-side location serving simple seafood platters, a memorable spaghetti ai ricci and some chili, Michelle's spaghetti vongole with bits of anchovy, and crudo di mare including the pairing of swordfish and mint, fresh anchovies and oregano, a wonderful caponata pescatore.
• Marzamemi: La Cialoma was probably my second favorite trattoria of the trip in this little tuna canning town that has become a hipster destination for Siracusans; the mussel pesto was particularly memorable, prepared meticulously by the ginger-haired and tattooed young lady chef.

Crostini Bread

The perfect thin toast for all sorts of canapes. They are light and airy merely serving as a vehicle for the tastier toppings. They should last a few days.

good quality baguette

1. put baguette in freezer until hard
2. take out and let defrost 10-15 minutes
3. cut into super thin slices 
4. toast on both sides

Carbonara Finissimo

I got this idea last month when Toby's help decided to mince my pancetta literally into tiny crumbs. Using spaghettini and super minced parsley creates a finer version of this cucina povera dish.

spaghettini
egg yolk
grated parmesan
pancetta, minced super finely
maldon sea salt
ground black pepper
EVOO
minced parsely

1. mix egg yolk and parmesan, set aside
2. saute pancetta
3. boil pasta 
4. put pasta into pan with pancetta, and heat through
5. take pan off heat, and add egg and parmesan mixture (make sure not to soon after or else you'll end up with an omelette pasta)
6. mix, add seasoning and parsley