Beijing Observations

Excellent, excellent food to be had in the capital. Thankfully, because that's about all there is to be had in the capital.

• Da Dong Roast Duck Restaurant: wood mushroom-stuffed candied cherry tomato; braised aubergine with star anise; Peking duck done their especially lean way ("retaining only 17% fat compared to other restaurants' 47%") with unusual condiments including pickled ginger and turnip, garlic paste in addition to the usual scallions, cucumber and brown sauce; a creamy strawberry sorbet and the most amazing fresh, plump and juicy lychees I've ever had; questionnaire supplied post meal asking for faves and flops resulted in an immediate query on why I hadn't like the green soda that came with the peas and ham appetizer, to which I replied, "tasted like mouthwash!"
• Made in China: not the most authentic place to have a meal--being in the lobby of the Grand Hyatt--but nevertheless on the local foodie circuit for its atmospheric open kitchen and specialty of the house: beggar's chicken; Peking duck good but not at the Da Dong level; most memorable dish was the one Geoff and his wife chose, deep fried whole fish with a spicy red sauce.
• Whampoa Club: this was a business lunch but probably better at night given the basement theatrics; I asked for the chef specialties which were black pepper beef and tea-smoked tofu.
• Lan Club: a Philippe Stark-designed restaurant; once you get over the latter, a good meal is possible here; especially memorable where the giant pork meatballs in special spicy sauce.