Torino Observations

A city we've long tried to visit and finally we did. It didn't disappoint, nor did the food. Torino is a gastronomic destination where the Slow Food movement began. It is the home of Lavazza, vermouth, choclate and grand cafes. Barolo and white truffles come from nearby. Eataly, the famous global chain of Italian food and wine, is based here. Below are some highlights over our short 48 hour visit.

• Tre Galline: probably my favorite as this was the closest to a traditional trattoria. Highlights were my bollito misto, a bagna cauda with the usual veggies including cardoons (and interestingly about a tablespoon of beef tartare), and a fresh ricotta decorated with crisp leaves and herbs. I think our agnoletti were probably best here. 
• Dolce Stil Novo: one-star modern Italian in Venaria Reale outside of Torino in a lovely palazzo with garden. Chef Alfredo Russo moved from his two-star restaurant in Aosta a couple years ago to open this new restaurant. Highlights were a Russian Salad which I adored (a decomposed modern version), veal tongue with a bright green, cold herby veloute, rabbit & red cabbage, and a "white pasta" or lasagna of super thin pasta sheets almost like a borek.
• Ristorante Consorzio: a good trattoria with three gamberi from the Gambero Rosso, mainly traditional local dishes with a modern touch and carnivore slant. Sweetbreads with a sweet and sour sauce were particularly good.
• Trattoria Valenza: a very simple place on the other side of the tracks in Borgo Dora spilling over with character, particularly the pork-bellied owner. Agnoletti were very good here, particularly their emulsified meat sauce. Perhaps a bit rough around the edges, but I loved it. 
• Osteria Aniche Sere: unable to go but apparently good.
• Combal.zero: an El Bulli kind of place, had we been here longer we would have tried.