Napoli Observations

• Ristorante Europeo di Matozzi: one of only two trattorias in the city center listed in the Gambero Rosso guide, run by two sisters who have taken over the reigns of this 100 year old establishment. Incredibly accommodating, they made sure we sampled the house specialties which included a mixed pasta with potato, smoked mozzarella, pancetta and basil prepared risotto-style; their version of spaghetti frutti di mare; and sauteed escarole with pinenuts, capers, olives. Dessert included the best baba au rhum I've ever had, so much lighter than the French variety; on the lighter side, Michelle had little gelatis encased in walnut shells, kumquats and chestnuts by Marco Gelati from Salerno (apparently exported to London).
• spaghetti cozze & parmesan: our taxi driver convinced us that this was the frutti di mare pasta to have in Napoli, saying that most of the vongole in the restaurants are imported from Spain, unless specified "vongole veraci". According to him, half of Napolitanos love cozze with cheese while the other half believe it is sacrilege. I've seen mussels and cheese elsewhere, including in Liguria where mussels are broiled in their shells with sprinkled cheese. The other take-away here is that if serving a vongole-cozze pasta, de-shell the mussels but keep the clams in their shells.
• toma di piemonte: nothing to do with Campagna but one of the ingredients in an alpine-themed panini with speck and mushrooms from the airport bar.