Rigatoni Alla Gricia

A firm favorite ever since I first tried it at Maccheroni in Rome, some 7 years ago now.  I've done a lot of chef pestering and recipe reading ever since, and I conclude that a true gricia consists simply of guanciale (cured pig cheek), pecorino romano and ground black pepper. A great gricia, however, and I agree with Maccheroni on this, includes a splash of white wine. But that is where I draw the line; adding garlic and herbs, or replacing pancetta for guanciale, or parmesan for pecorino, just doesn't cut it.  

rigatoni, or tortiglioni no 23 (500 gr)

1-2 tblsp EVOO

guanciale, about 12 slices-cut thinly but not as thin as you would prosciutto

pecorino Romano, ground in food processor until smooth but not completely

black pepper corns crushed with pestle & mortar until ground

5-6 tblsp pasta water

half cup white wine

1. boil water, add salt 
2. slice up guanciale into ribbons, about half/one inch wide
3. put EVOO in large pan, put on medium heat, add guanciale when hot
4. let guanciale crisp up only very slightly, simply to caramelize the edges, before turning heat back down (absolutely key to preserve the guanciale fat)
5. add white wine into pan, turn heat up 1 minute or so, until alcohol evaporates & pan deglazes
6. undercook pasta by 1-2 minutes, approximately 6 minutes, before putting into pan with guanciale (reserve some pasta water!)
7. coat pasta with fat, add enough pasta water and a tblsp of pecorino to get an emulsified sauce; pasta doesn't need to be in pan more than a minute otherwise will overcook.  
8. when happy with the consistency of sauce, sprinkle pepper (more than you ordinarily would on a dish)
9. serve up in HEATED bowls, add 1-2 tbsp of pecorino and eat ASAP