Gnocchi & Gorgonzola

The key thing with gnocchi is to get them airy and light and not too chewy. The less flour you can get away with the better. If the dough is still a bit wet and sticky add just the right amount of flour to eliminate the stickiness. The coarse semolina in this recipe gives these light gnocchi a slightly rustic edge which works well I think.

1 kg Desiree or king Edward potatoes (floury type)
Maldon sea salt, fresh ground pepper, grated nutmeg
2 large egg yolks
150 gr 00 flour
100 gr coarse semolina flour
chives
olive oil
parmesan

Gorgonzola sauce:
284 ml container single cream
thick slice of gorgonzola, to taste (roughly half or 2/3 amt of cream about right so that melted cheese does not stiffen up as temperature falls once in your plate)
pepper, salt

1. Cook potatoes with skin on in large pot of salted boiling water. Drain and peel while hot. The potatoes must be very dry!
2. Put potatoes through a food mill; lightly fold in eggs and flours (which have been combined and mixed together). Add salt, pepper and a tad of nutmeg to taste. Work together to obtain dough.
3. Divide dough into four. On clean surface roll out each piece of dough into long cigar shapes. Cut into 2-3 cm lengths. The more irregular the better. Scatter some semolina flour on work surface and roll each piece over the back of a fork to make indentations which will pick up the sauce.
4. Put cream in large frying pan, add chopped gorgonzola when hot, keep stirring til cheese melts into cream, add pepper.
5. Bring large pan of salted water to boil. Add gnocchi and cook over high heat until they rise to the surface. Remove with slotted spoon and put directly into pan with gorgonzola sauce. Coat gnocchis with sauce, serve in bowls, add small sprinkling of chives, ground black pepper, dash of olive oil, tad of parmesan.

Spaghetti Vongole My Style

I did this last night for my parents, and I think it's one of the better vongoles I've made.  The bottarga is the trick. 

spaghetti (1 pack for four people)

fresh red chile

4-5 dried pepperoncini

clams--small ones

parsley- 2 handfuls

bottarga- 2 tblsps

EVOO

S&P

5 cloves garlic

white wine

butter-- 2 tblsps

lemon

1. in  a big pan, saute garlic and pepperoncini in a few tblsp of EVOO until former is lightly goldened; let sit in oil for so that flavor develops
2. turn heat up, add clams, cover
3. when clams open, add half cup of wine, maybe a bit more, til alcohol burns off
4. take pepperoncini out, put in chopped fresh chili
5. while above is happening, cook spaghetti 6 mins until very al dente
6. put pasta in pan, stir, add S&P, parsley & bottarga (latter mainly as seasoning!)
7. at very end, add butter, stir until melts, plus another splash of EVOO
8. serve with lemon wedges

Bresaola Bombs

Couldn't help but notice these in Paris over the weekend! They kept creeping up, whether it was at an AUP cocktail, Au Bon Marche or a little Italian epiceria on Rue de Bretagne. I love the cheese mixture!

marscapone

ricotta

nutmeg

EVOO

S&P

herbs

1. mix equal parts of the two cheeses, grate some nutmeg and S&P, dash of EVOO, and chopped herbs--finely minced parsley probably best.
2. the cheese should hold well, allowing one to roll the bresaola around say 1-2 tblsp of cheese mixture depending on how big your meat slices are.
3. lay out on tray, can be eaten with hands.

Rigatoni Alla Gricia

A firm favorite ever since I first tried it at Maccheroni in Rome, some 7 years ago now.  I've done a lot of chef pestering and recipe reading ever since, and I conclude that a true gricia consists simply of guanciale (cured pig cheek), pecorino romano and ground black pepper. A great gricia, however, and I agree with Maccheroni on this, includes a splash of white wine. But that is where I draw the line; adding garlic and herbs, or replacing pancetta for guanciale, or parmesan for pecorino, just doesn't cut it.  

rigatoni, or tortiglioni no 23 (500 gr)

1-2 tblsp EVOO

guanciale, about 12 slices-cut thinly but not as thin as you would prosciutto

pecorino Romano, ground in food processor until smooth but not completely

black pepper corns crushed with pestle & mortar until ground

5-6 tblsp pasta water

half cup white wine

1. boil water, add salt 
2. slice up guanciale into ribbons, about half/one inch wide
3. put EVOO in large pan, put on medium heat, add guanciale when hot
4. let guanciale crisp up only very slightly, simply to caramelize the edges, before turning heat back down (absolutely key to preserve the guanciale fat)
5. add white wine into pan, turn heat up 1 minute or so, until alcohol evaporates & pan deglazes
6. undercook pasta by 1-2 minutes, approximately 6 minutes, before putting into pan with guanciale (reserve some pasta water!)
7. coat pasta with fat, add enough pasta water and a tblsp of pecorino to get an emulsified sauce; pasta doesn't need to be in pan more than a minute otherwise will overcook.  
8. when happy with the consistency of sauce, sprinkle pepper (more than you ordinarily would on a dish)
9. serve up in HEATED bowls, add 1-2 tbsp of pecorino and eat ASAP

Scallops Nobu Style

This is a classic Nobu recipe. Incredibly easy but tasty.

1 scallop and coquille per person
best butter
parmesan
best soy
garlic--pureed
lemon
maldon sea salt

1. put scallop in its shell
   
2. grate garlic very finely and rub on top of scallop
3. add a couple thumbnails of butter depending on size of scallop
4. sprinkle soy sauce on top, but just a bit
   
5. sprinkle at least a tsp of parmesan
   
6. put under the grill (at 200 degrees) for no more than 3-4 minutes--again depending on size
   
7. to serve, put a mound of rock salt on a platter and set shells on top (looks nice & they don't wobble!)
8. place lemon wedges on side, give a quick squeeze for each right before they go in the mouth
   

Squid Tonnato

Definitely my favorite find of the last few weeks!  The squid, like in the traditional veal tonnato, merely acts as a vehicle to transport the awesome tuna-caper sauce.

2 medium squids

1 can of Italian tuna in oil (about 150 gr)

nice handful of capers

EVOO

home-made mayo (egg yoke, dijon mustard, 2/3 corn oil & 1/3 EVOO, squeeze of lemon)

lemon wedges

flat leaf parsley

pepper

1. clean squid, flatten out into two "steaks", make criss-cross incisions to prevent curling up when heated
2. whizz up in food processor can of tuna + capers; add some EVOO to loosen up 
3. make mayo & add to tuna caper sauce, couple squeezes of lemon
4. ground some pepper on squid steaks & tentacles and fry up--no more than a minute
5. put on cutting board & immediately pour pan juices over squid, with the help of a last second squeeze of lemon into the pan 
   
6. slice up into inch-wide strips--rather unevenly
   
7. let cool somewhat before pouring tuna-caper sauce haphazardly over squid
8. add parsley & pepper, with some lemon wedges on the side

Tropical Spritzer

There's actually nothing very tropical about this (ok, maybe the oranges), but usually the first drink I ask for when flying SQ.

2 parts good quality orange juice
1 part good quality tomato juice
Few splashes of 7-Up

1. Pour in a tall glass over ice
   
2. Mix and drink straight-away
   

Radish, Butter & Salt

Although the combo is nothing new, I got the idea of treating the radishes this way talking to M. Gilles, an old boulanger from a few villages over from my grandmother's. Radish this way is not only prettier but makes the application of butter so much easier.

Longish red radish
French butter
Guerande salt

1. Clean radish, leave a half inch of stem. Slit radishes twice criss-cross, ie four slivers, 80% of way up to stem.
   
2. Place radish into ice water for a couple hours; they will open up like a flower.
   
3. Add butter and salt to taste
   

Green Grape & Pomegranate Guacamole

My creation! Can do with tomatoes but not necessary.

Ripe Avocados- Hess or better
Lime
Evoo
Seedless green grape
Pomegranate seeds
Coriander, handful, including crushed roots
Garlic- a few halves
Minced onion-- 1-2 tblsp
Maldon sea salt
Habenero tobasco
Cherry tomatoes (optional)

1. Mash avocados with evoo, lime, salt, tobasco, onion and garlic halves
   
2. Add coriander, tomaotes, grape halves
   
3. Pile on a nice rustic plate, poor more evoo, and throw handful of pomegranate seeds on top
   

Involtini Rue du Poteau

I couldn't help noticing these lovely involtini again at Rue du Poteau's best  traiteur  near my aunt's in the 18th.

Speck, cut super thin + trimmed of fat
Asparagus tips
Ricotta, mixed with parmesan, s&p, evoo, nutmeg
Evoo

1. Smear speck slices with ricotta mixture
   
2. Roll around 2 or 3 asparagus spears, depending on how big latter are
   
3. Very importantly, put involtini in a shallow dish and poor EVOO halfway up. 
   
4. Let marinate, turn over from time to time, til ready to eat. Keeps for a few days. Eat at room temperature.