Thursday, 23 July 2009

Bagno America House Salad

A nice laid back bagno in FdM with a subtle, wholesome house salad on offer.  Perfect for a hot summer day, preferably at the Bagno itself.  The salad is memorable because it combines raw and steamed veggies, mozzarella and tuna.  We made it at home, and got it just about right.  If you don't have the best, freshest, ripest ingredients, better not to bother.  No pepper allowed!

white escarole (romaine or bibb ok)
french green beans (steamed)
baby potatoes (steamed), halved 
baby courgettes (steamed, sliced on the diagonal in fairly small pieces)
radicchio, sliced rather thinly
rucola
fennel (thinly sliced, marinated in EVOO)
cherry tomatoes, halved
best quality canned Italian tuna
mozzarella
EVOO
white wine vinegar (or red, or sherry)
sea salt

  1. distribute ingredients across however many serving bowls 
  2. put leafy ingredients last, sprinkle with tuna & mozzarella
  3. dress to taste

Yummy Tuna Fish Sandwich

Not the most PC sandwich these days. Inspired by a sandwich I had at Fernandez & Wells, the sandwich & coffee bar in Soho.

best quality tinned Italian (or Spanish) tuna in oil
home-made aioli (or fresh one pre-made from deli)
cornichons
capers
fresh tarragon and/or dill
parsley
chopped grilled red pepper (skin removed)
squeeze of lemon
grated lemon rind
very finely-chopped red onion (optional)
EVOO
S&P
tabasco sauce (both green & red)

  1. in a bowl, break up tuna and mix in aioli to coat well
  2. add rest of ingredients to taste, with emphasis on the cornichons, capers & tarragon
  3. red peppers are optional but make a big difference--don't need much!
  4. grill some good quality bread, rub garlic & EVOO (and extra aioli if you're feeling fab), spread generous amounts of tuna mixture to make sandwich

Brown Shrimp & Peas on Toast

Something I had at one of my favorite London pubs--the Princess Victoria-- about a year ago. Aside from the fact that brown shrimp look more like little larvae, it is otherwise a very tasty recipe that the chef rattled out as we stood at the bar.

brown shrimp
fresh peas
watercress
white wine
fish broth (quality store bought suffices)
cream
EVOO

  1. fry up shrimp in EVOO to warm, then add wine, broth and cream
  2. add peas and watercress
  3. put on some nice grilled toast (preferably rustic sourdough, peasant etc)

Tuesday, 21 July 2009

Berber Squid Salad

A recipe graciously provided by Amanda Gale, head chef of Cy'An at the Metropolitan in Bangkok, after much hinting on my part. So much is going on but in a very delicate way. The best part of the recipe is the home-made harissa which needs to be really smooth.

fresh squid-60 gr per portion (best to get smaller & delicate with thinner skin)
red onions very thinly sliced
picked coriander, parsley, mint & rocket
shaved fennel (slice thru a mandolin)
orange segments (eliminate skins)
toasted sliced almonds
harissa (see below)
orange dressing (see below)

harissa
400 ml olive oil
1 kg red peppers, seeded & cut into large dice
200 gr red chili, de-seeded
100 gr garlic, bruised
25 gr cumin seed, roast & ground
50 gr coriander seed, roast & ground
50 gr fennel seed, roast & ground
2 large tomatoes roasted in oven, skin removed
40 gr palm sugar
40 gr fish sauce
salt

orange vinaigrette
300 ml orange juice
1 lemon juiced
2 drops orange blossom waters
300 ml EVOO
S&P

  1. make the harissa: a) put peppers, oil & salt into a large pan and start to cook until the peppers are translucent, 40 minutes; b) add garlic & chili to pan and dry on the side; c) roast & grind spices & pass through fine sieve; d) reduce heat & add spices and stir until they release their perfume; e) add palm sugar & caramelize; then add fish sauce, taste & make sure not to sweet or salty; f) add tomatoes and cook down for another 15 mins; g) blend in a vita-prep blender until very smooth smooth paste
  2. make the orange vinaigrette: a) place orange juice in pot and reduce by 1/3; b) whisk in lemon juice, orange blossom waters, EVOO & season
  3. when two above ingredients ready, take a very sharp knife and cut into 2/3 of the depth in a criss-cross pattern, very fine lines close together
  4. mix some harissa & orange vinaigrette together except the almonds to form a dressing consistency (some emulsification)
  5. on a plate (s) put all the salad ingredients together except the almonds, drizzle with vinaigrette
  6. put squid in bowl & dress with vinaigrette, then toss over salad
  7. garnish with sliced almonds


Monday, 13 July 2009

The Perfect Turkish Breakfast

We realized this year on vacation in Italy how much we missed the perfect Turkish breakfast. Below is the result of feedback from various Turkish friends, and so I believe it is pretty close to perfect. Michelle had a brilliant idea for our dream B&B: the option of Turkish, Spanish or Filipino breakfast for our guests every morning.

peeled cucumber
peeled, ripest tomatoes
green pepper (thin & long, mild), stems removed
EVOO
high quality feta
high quality kasar (yellow cheese)
combination of green & black olives
finger bowl of dried chilli, oregano (ie can sprinkle on olives)
candied fig
honey still on the comb
cherry preserves
young walnut if in season
home-made cashew/peanut butter
butter
Simit (Turkish bagel with sesame seeds)
hot black tea in small tulip-shaped glass
optional (a platter of sunny side-up eggs delivered half way through bfast-dip the Simit in the egg!)
  1. assemble all the above ingredients in separate plates and place in the middle of the table so that guests can help themselves
  2. arrange individual big plate servings with cucumber, tomato, olives, drizzled with EVOO in one section + the sweet items in another section

Sunday, 12 July 2009

Forte dei Marmi Observations

Nice relaxed food all around, especially the antipastis at Barca & focaccia at Orlando:

  • Spaghetti with seabass & lemon rind
  • Spaghetti arselle (tiny baby clams, no shells)
  • America salad (combining mozzarella and tuna)
  • Butternut squash gnocchetti with langoustine
  • Tuna, clam, red pepper puree
  • Swordfish carpaccio with pesto
  • Small shell pastas with pesto (including philadelphia cheese!) and prawn
  • Orechiette with tomato, vongole
  • Panzanella (pane con tomate style) with tiny squid
  • Focaccia with crema di formaggio, sweet peas, best prosciutto
  • Spritz (mostly prosecco with equal parts sparkling water & aperol)



Friday, 10 July 2009

Salade Russe

I first really took notice of the Russian Salad in Kiev.  But it makes an appearance in many other places, including France and Italy.  You can also find it in most Spanish tapas cookbooks. My favorite version to date is below.

a cup of fresh peas
2/3 cup green beans
6 cauliflower flowerets
2 potatoes
2 carrots
half dozen cornichons
1 small cooked beat
1 egg, hardboiled
home-made mayo
S&P

  1. cook the veggies in separate pans of boiling water until al dente
  2. drain well and chop veggies apart from peas, in roughly the same sizes
  3. put all veggies in a salad bowl with the cornichons, beets and egg
  4. stir in mayo to form a soft mixture-don't drown it, just make sure veggies have a thin coating, season
  5. chill in fridge for 3 hours
  6. put salad in small bowl used as a mold you flip onto a plate