San Sebastian Observations

What a fun time getting re-acquainted with the San Sebastian pintxos scene, 17 years later. Already long the destination for many a foodie, I fear for this little gem's future as second and third waves of mass tourists arrive. The bar food is very much steeped in tradition with only a couple of places going out on the culinary limb. These note are the result of a lot info distillation and even better: first hand visits to all but one. I am ranking the bars in order of food and ambiance. For the food, I've listed dishes in order of delicioso-ness. Ambiance ranks highly if the place and its clients feel local and the bar itself has a good look preferably in its original decorative state (1-10 score for each with top combined score of 20). A recommended itinerary--assuming your capable of a drink in each establishment--would be: Paco Bueno + Txepetxa + Ursola + Borda Berri + Gandara + La Vina for cheesecake (!). Save Cuchara for lunch, starting with Bar Martinez nearby. For a day in Gros, start with Bar Roberto and Ricardo and finish at Bergara.  All bars are in the old town except where indicated.

• Gandara (9+8=17): really good all around place with quality food and tourists. Ceps and egg yolk, gildas, grilled ham and cheese croissants, prawn and cod skewer, jamon croquetas, grilled red peppers, fried guindillas (only late July-early Aug); percebes (a sort of barnacle). Famous for their little spider crab tart but nothing special. A properly chilled Albarino is on hand, perfect accompaniment! Michelle very happy.

• La Vina (8+8=16): one of Godfather Arzak's favorites with great service to match. The cheesecake is a legend with many people in town finishing their night here for dessert. Otherwise award-winning cheese cone (albeit from ages ago), fried cod, meatballs & fries, bellota jamon plate, good Muga (Rioja). 

• Borda Berri (10+7=16): Barcelona chef who deserted Cuchara San Telmo. My favorite modern pintxos place. Kebab of pork rib, "Risotto" with Idiazabal cheese, Salmorejo with smoked bacalao, veal cheek and tomato confit.

• Cuchara San Telmo (10+6=16): great food but the worst-kept secret in town and better to go for lunch. Smug tourists abound. Trailblazers who did away with pintxos, shifting to small, made-to-order dishes. Burrata & clams (maybe my trip favorite), suckling pig, veal cheeks that the Borda Berri chef obviously brought with him.

• Ursola (9+7=16); If you can, stand at the middle table outside as it's a prime spot. High quality food because the chef has some serious credentials. The place to have San Sebastian's hallmark dish: Kokotxas (hake's throat) in pil-pil sauce. They will likely recommend them grilled, but try the classic way first! 

• Haizea (7+9=16): adjacent to the market, one of Godfather's Arzak's favorites from what I understand. They were always happy to open a bottle of Cava because that is what my mama wanted to drink. La Patrone is eager to please and will go out of her way to make their house specialty: salt cod in brick pastry. No need to go for the pintxos on the bar! 

• Bar Bergara (8+8=16):  the ambiance score is relatively high not due to decor but local clientele, just up the street from Bar Ricardo and Bar Roberto.  Fresh and well-presented, modern touch. Stand-out pintxos is the tomato "hamburger" with dates (vegetarian). In Gros.

• Txepetxa (8+7=15):  only anchovies on toast served here, plus an excellent gilda. The toppings are great, but it's the perfect texture of the baguette that got me the most. Three favorite toppings were spider crab, sea urchin cream and black olive. The jardiniere garnish also excellent!

• Bar Roberto (5+10=15): off the beaten track in Gros, specializing in Vermut with a couple of stand-out pintxos. Roberto is a professional. He's been there forever and I have a feeling he will still be there many years from now. Dried bonito & tomato on toast, smoked eel with seaweed on toast. In Gros.

• Bar Ricardo (5+10=15):  just across the street from Bar Roberto and tad more local. The place for croquetas jamon. His vermu includes a secret sauce including a mixture of campari, angostura bitters and Picon (super cool). In Gros.

• Paco Bueno (4+11=15): hands down the best ambiance in the old town hence the cheeky score of 11. Crazy and crude, just like the Spain we love. In business since 1950 doing the same darn thing year in, year out. The only thing to get here is prawn in batter. Just have one otherwise your appetite will be shot!

• Casa Valles (5+10=15): home of the original Gildas! The only thing I had, as most of the food on offer seemed average. More of an institution and very local by San Sebastian standards, hence the 10 score. In the Center.

• Bar Martinez (7+7=14): feeling pretty local even if on the tourist strip. The salmon mousse with home-made mayo on baguette slice my favorite here. Oh and the tuna-stuffed pepper with tartare sauce.

• Bar Tambril (5+7=12): a nice enough place with great location on Playa Constitucion but the main reason to go is the "anchovy in tempura".

• Bar Nestor (7+4=11): a tourist trap although apparently very good at the three things they focus on: grilled rib chop, tomato salad and the coveted tortilla. Chinese clamouring around the door at opening for first seats at the bar was enough to move on the next place. The only place I didn't sample on this list but wanted to score it anyway!

• Fuega Negro (7+4=11): tries to be Brooklyn but struggles, although had some very good fried chicken, hamburger sliders and house-made pastrami excellent. A daring place by local, more conservative standards.