Steak Diane

It took a Steak Diane to re-engage me. Loving what this dish represents: grand old dining devoid of pretension, tired hotel restaurants serviced by life-long devoted staff, in this case more likely an elderly gentleman in bow tie and apron cooking table-side in absolute control of cognac-induced flames, drizzling spoonfuls of sauce in repeated fashion, little by little over delicate little cuts of caramelizing filets. 

beef filets 

sliced brown button mushrooms

1 red onion

2-3 shallots

2 cloves of garlic, mashed to a paste with salt 

fresh tarragon, thyme, parsley, chives

maldon sea salt, ground black pepper

2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce

1/4 cup Madeira

Cognac

1 TBS sour cream

1 TBS dijon mustard

butter

1/3 cup home-made fond de veau or 1/2 cup chicken stock

1. flatten out steaks between parchment paper, to about a half to 2/3 of an inch thick
2. saute onions, followed by shallots and then mushrooms once the latter have caramelized somewhat
3. add salt to draw moisture out of mushrooms, add some (not too much) chopped tarragon and 1-2 sprigs of fresh thyme
4. when mushrooms have let off their water, add Worcestershire sauce, followed by Madeira and cognac; light the latter and let burn off before reducing sauce gently; add fond de veau or chicken stock, season with salt and pepper to taste
5. caramelize the filets on high heat in a separate pan until desired done-ness, let rest 10 minutes while sauce is reducing
6. right before adding the steaks to the pan with sauce, stir in a little mustard and sour cream until well incorporated, followed by some butter
7. let steaks warm through for no more than a minute to avoid further cooking
8. add a tiny drizzle of cognac and stir through to give a little contrasting bite to the fat
9. serve up on a warm heated platter with chopped chives and parsley on top

 

Creamy Mushroom Risotto

We know that risottos need to creamy and smooth. Typically that's done with butter, but here I've made a mushroom veloute which is both delicious and creamy.

combination of mushrooms, whatever looks good
EVOO
butter
maldon sea salt
ground black pepper
garlic
chives
onions
arbrorio
best chicken stock
dried porcini
parmesan

1. soak porcini and eliminate sand
2. put garlic and mushrooms in a pan and saute with some EVOO
3. keep sauteeing until some caramelization sets in
4. deglaze with some what wine
5. add some porcini water to pan
6. season again and whizz up in a blender until you get a smooth veloute
7. saute chopped onions in butter and olive oil in a separate pan until golden but not browned
8. add rice (one handful per person) and let get sticky in pan
9. add white wine and once boiled down, add stock slowly and stir for about 18 minutes
10. toward end, add veloute to rice and fold in gently
11. ready to serve when desired consistency reached

Carta Musica, Bottarga, Chilli

Udon Mentaiko

From my favorite Japanese resto in Hong Kong. Secret recipe so the restaurant will remain nameless!

starch, best quality Udon
mentaiko
good quality vegetable oil
butter
fresh lime
fresh lemon
shiso
korean chilli powder

1. boil udon and save the water; heat oil on low heat, then add mentaiko and butter
2. add udon, turn heat up and add udon water until creamy and rich
3. add a couple of squeezes of lemon and lime
4. once plated, add shiso and chilli powder, as well as some extra mentaiko for garnish

Los Angeles Observations

Oh that blue sky and uplifting optimism that permeates everyone and everything. It'a a pity there's never enough time to sample more. I guess these little teaser trips keep us going back. Only regret is not going to Animal to this time, but still lots of highlights:

• Trois Mecs: luckily got a table, with the standout being the black truffle grilled cheese. 
• Rustic Canyon: our top dish here was better than anything at Trois Mecs: the Clam Pozole Verde
• Gjelina's: what's there not to like about riding your bike from Santa Monica via Venice to Abbot Kinney for lunch at Gjelina's? Highlight was ricotta gnocchi, beluga lentils with squid and salsa verde and the gob-smacking butterscotch pudding with salty caramel.
• Bestia: hugely popular Italian run by a charming young couple who have just gone for it. The gent is Israeli so traces of the Middle East in some of the dishes including the chicken liver which was spread around the interior of a terra cotta bowl like one would do with hummus in Beirut.
• Tasting Kitchen: around the corner from Gjelina's and feeling a little more grown-up. Smart crowd and Med fare not bad at all. Interesting that Jonathan Gold puts Gjelina much lower on his top 101 resto list. Although maybe slightly less refined than Tasting Kitchen, the flavors are gutsier at Gjelina.

Fusilli & Squash

I couldn't resist jotting this down following a quick glimpse of Gennaro's tube channel. How nice it would be to have his little garden terrace overlooking the Amalfi Coast. Don't overdo the rosemary.

freshly-made fusilli pasta
orange squash
red chili
garlic
rosemary
vegetablie stock
olive oil
maldon sea salt

1. cut squash into cubes, about the size of a thumbnail
2. boil water
3. saute garlic in a lighter olive oil, then chili and rosemary (2-3 sprigs for 400 grams of pasta)
4. let develop some color before adding stock
5. cook for about half our or until soft
6. add pasta into when 1-2 minutes short of finish time
7. give a nice stir, add more olive oil (perhaps an extra virgin this time)
8. taste, season and serve

San Sebastian Observations

What a fun time getting re-acquainted with the San Sebastian pintxos scene, 17 years later. Already long the destination for many a foodie, I fear for this little gem's future as second and third waves of mass tourists arrive. The bar food is very much steeped in tradition with only a couple of places going out on the culinary limb. These note are the result of a lot info distillation and even better: first hand visits to all but one. I am ranking the bars in order of food and ambiance. For the food, I've listed dishes in order of delicioso-ness. Ambiance ranks highly if the place and its clients feel local and the bar itself has a good look preferably in its original decorative state (1-10 score for each with top combined score of 20). A recommended itinerary--assuming your capable of a drink in each establishment--would be: Paco Bueno + Txepetxa + Ursola + Borda Berri + Gandara + La Vina for cheesecake (!). Save Cuchara for lunch, starting with Bar Martinez nearby. For a day in Gros, start with Bar Roberto and Ricardo and finish at Bergara.  All bars are in the old town except where indicated.

• Gandara (9+8=17): really good all around place with quality food and tourists. Ceps and egg yolk, gildas, grilled ham and cheese croissants, prawn and cod skewer, jamon croquetas, grilled red peppers, fried guindillas (only late July-early Aug); percebes (a sort of barnacle). Famous for their little spider crab tart but nothing special. A properly chilled Albarino is on hand, perfect accompaniment! Michelle very happy.

• La Vina (8+8=16): one of Godfather Arzak's favorites with great service to match. The cheesecake is a legend with many people in town finishing their night here for dessert. Otherwise award-winning cheese cone (albeit from ages ago), fried cod, meatballs & fries, bellota jamon plate, good Muga (Rioja). 

• Borda Berri (10+7=16): Barcelona chef who deserted Cuchara San Telmo. My favorite modern pintxos place. Kebab of pork rib, "Risotto" with Idiazabal cheese, Salmorejo with smoked bacalao, veal cheek and tomato confit.

• Cuchara San Telmo (10+6=16): great food but the worst-kept secret in town and better to go for lunch. Smug tourists abound. Trailblazers who did away with pintxos, shifting to small, made-to-order dishes. Burrata & clams (maybe my trip favorite), suckling pig, veal cheeks that the Borda Berri chef obviously brought with him.

• Ursola (9+7=16); If you can, stand at the middle table outside as it's a prime spot. High quality food because the chef has some serious credentials. The place to have San Sebastian's hallmark dish: Kokotxas (hake's throat) in pil-pil sauce. They will likely recommend them grilled, but try the classic way first! 

• Haizea (7+9=16): adjacent to the market, one of Godfather's Arzak's favorites from what I understand. They were always happy to open a bottle of Cava because that is what my mama wanted to drink. La Patrone is eager to please and will go out of her way to make their house specialty: salt cod in brick pastry. No need to go for the pintxos on the bar! 

• Bar Bergara (8+8=16):  the ambiance score is relatively high not due to decor but local clientele, just up the street from Bar Ricardo and Bar Roberto.  Fresh and well-presented, modern touch. Stand-out pintxos is the tomato "hamburger" with dates (vegetarian). In Gros.

• Txepetxa (8+7=15):  only anchovies on toast served here, plus an excellent gilda. The toppings are great, but it's the perfect texture of the baguette that got me the most. Three favorite toppings were spider crab, sea urchin cream and black olive. The jardiniere garnish also excellent!

• Bar Roberto (5+10=15): off the beaten track in Gros, specializing in Vermut with a couple of stand-out pintxos. Roberto is a professional. He's been there forever and I have a feeling he will still be there many years from now. Dried bonito & tomato on toast, smoked eel with seaweed on toast. In Gros.

• Bar Ricardo (5+10=15):  just across the street from Bar Roberto and tad more local. The place for croquetas jamon. His vermu includes a secret sauce including a mixture of campari, angostura bitters and Picon (super cool). In Gros.

• Paco Bueno (4+11=15): hands down the best ambiance in the old town hence the cheeky score of 11. Crazy and crude, just like the Spain we love. In business since 1950 doing the same darn thing year in, year out. The only thing to get here is prawn in batter. Just have one otherwise your appetite will be shot!

• Casa Valles (5+10=15): home of the original Gildas! The only thing I had, as most of the food on offer seemed average. More of an institution and very local by San Sebastian standards, hence the 10 score. In the Center.

• Bar Martinez (7+7=14): feeling pretty local even if on the tourist strip. The salmon mousse with home-made mayo on baguette slice my favorite here. Oh and the tuna-stuffed pepper with tartare sauce.

• Bar Tambril (5+7=12): a nice enough place with great location on Playa Constitucion but the main reason to go is the "anchovy in tempura".

• Bar Nestor (7+4=11): a tourist trap although apparently very good at the three things they focus on: grilled rib chop, tomato salad and the coveted tortilla. Chinese clamouring around the door at opening for first seats at the bar was enough to move on the next place. The only place I didn't sample on this list but wanted to score it anyway!

• Fuega Negro (7+4=11): tries to be Brooklyn but struggles, although had some very good fried chicken, hamburger sliders and house-made pastrami excellent. A daring place by local, more conservative standards.