Wednesday, 30 September 2009

Scandi Snackie

My creation although admittedly not very original! The crispiness of cracker combined with chewiness of the salmon, along with the other classic flavor combos, works nicely. Make a dinner out of them, with a crispy green salad and tangy vinaigrette to accompany.

ryvita crackers
smoked salmon
creme fraiche
horseradish (fresh)
dill
butter
lemon rind
juice of lemon
salt

  1. mix 1 part horseradish to 5 parts creme fraiche, squeeze lemon juice and add salt to taste
  2. break crackers up into bite size pieces
  3. spread butter on cracker
  4. layer with slice of salmon
  5. sprinkle lemon rind
  6. squeeze tad of lemon juice
  7. put a spoonful of creme fraiche mixture on top
  8. sprinkle fresh dill

Celery Remoulade & Crispy Pancetta

One of my favorites. Both textures are crunchy, the celery root with a nice acidic dressing and the pancetta with a pleasing, salty fattiness. Perfect with some chilled gamay, and crusty baguette. Many variations, i.e., the addition of grated green apples to lighten it up, or adding capers to give it a nice twang (don't mix apples and capers though).

celeriac, grated in long thin strips (mandolin best)

lemon
vinaigrette of red wine vinegar, olive oil, dijon mustard, whole grain mustard, salt and pepper to taste
home-made mayonnaise, with squeeze of lemon
creme fraiche
S&P
parsley & chives

pancetta strips
EVOO
  1. grate the celery root, squeeze a bit of lemon and mix to prevent from discoloring
  2. mix in vinaigrette to loosen up, let set 6 hours
  3. make mayonnaise, add to celery to taste
  4. mix in creme fraiche to taste (about a tblsp)
  5. chop lots of the herbs, add to celery
  6. fry up pancetta til crispy but chewy
  7. put celery remoulade on plate, top with a couple pancetta strips
  8. drizzle olive oil, couple turns of the pepper mill

Tuesday, 29 September 2009

Ham Hock Terrine & Piccalilly

Something I've been wanting to make for a long time. Given to me by Mark Hix's PA. Seems like this dish is appearing on every other gastropub's menu these days, but I trust that Hix' recipe is best, which is why I asked for it. There's the more traditional version that I love and grew up with, jambon persille & mustard, and better yet although a lot different, fromage de tete (would need to check with HQ before I boil a pig head in the house though). It's possible that one can get away with using the calf foot because the hamhock lets off some natural gelatin. I might hesitate as one risks losing flavor this way. A leftover idea is to shove pieces of the terrine between two best quality pieces of bread/bun, smother with piccalilli and a few lettuce leaves (inspired by a ham and piccalilli sandwich I had at John Torode's new resto, Luxe, at Spitafields).

1 ham hock, 1 kg, soaked overnight in cold water
a few sprigs of thyme
1 bay leaf
2 medium onions, peeled & quartered
3 celery stalks
10 black peppercorns
9g (3 sheets of) gelatine (or a calf foot)
2 tblsp chopped parsley

piccalilli
1 med cucumber, halved lengthwise and deseeded
1/2 large head of cauliflower, cut into small florets then halved
1 onion, peeled and cut into large dice
1 tbsp salt
150 g caster sugar
65 g English mustard
1/2 tsp ground termeric
1 small chilli, deseeded & finely chopped
150 ml malt vinegar
125 ml of white wine vinegar
1 level tbsp cornflour

  1. at least a week ahead, make the piccalilli: cut the cucumber in half again lengthwise, then cut into 1 cm pieces; put them in a dish with the cauliflower and onion, then sprinkle with salt; leave for 1 hour, then rinse well in cold water and drain in a colander.
  2. in a saucepan, mix the sugar, mustard, turmeric, chilli and the two vinegars then bring to the boil and simmer 2-3 mins.
  3. meanwhile, mix the cornflour with 150 ml water, whisk into the vinegar mixture and continue to simmer gently for another 5 minutes. Mix the hot liquid with the vegetables and leave the mixture to cool. Store in the fridge in sterilized Kilner jars for at least a week before use and up to 6 months.
  4. put the hock into a saucepan with the rest of the ingredients except the gelatine and parsley; bring to the boil and simmer for about 2 hours, until the hock is tender (the cooking time may vary according to the cut and size. Remove from the liquid and leave to cool.
  5. skim off any fat. For a hock this size you will need to remove about 350 ml of the cooking liquid to ensure it sets; however, a hock will generally produce more natural gelatine so add one less sheet of gelatine if using hock.
  6. soak the gelatine leaves in a shallow bowl of cold water for a minute or so until soft. Squeeze out the water and add to the hot cooking liquor with the parsley and stir until dissovled. Leave somewhere to cool, but don't let it set.
  7. meanwhile, cut the hame into rough 1 cm cubes, removing any fat and put it in a bowl. Mix in a little of the cooled stock and pack into either a suitable-sized terrine mould or a similarly-shaped rectangular container. Top up with the remaining stock.
  8. cover with cling film, and leave to set in fridge over night.
  9. to serve, briefly--about 15 seconds-- dip the terrine into a bowl of boiling water and then turn it upside down onto a chopping board to turn out.
  10. with a carving knife, cut into 2 cm thick slices & serve with spoonful of piccalilli

Saturday, 26 September 2009

Wine Notes

I've always been fond of young, fresh and chilled French gamays. There are other, less obvious red wines that are also great chilled, some as far south as Puglia. This list will grow, as I will add as I discover more:
  • Bardolino, Monte del Fra (Veneto)
  • Fichimori, Tormaresca-Antinori (Puglia): 100% negroamaro
  • Pallavicini Rubillo Cesanese 2008 (Lazio)
  • Alois Lageder Sudtirol 2006 (Alto Adige): 100% Pinot Nero
  • Barbera del Monferrato, La Briosa Montalbera (Piedmonte): 100% Barbera
  • Wein, R&A Pfalffl, a blend of zweigelt and pinot noire from Austria


Tuesday, 22 September 2009

Tuna Tartare Umu

Ingredients as far as I understood from the Brazilian sushi chef at Umu. A bit on the busy side, but determined to reproduce and refine below after a couple more calls.

tuna--toro if you can (300 gr)
black sesame seeds (1 tsp)
soy sauce light (20 ml)
shiso cress (12 leaves)
shallot (50 gr)
pickled ginger (50 gr)
whole grain mustard (1 tsp)
ken (daikon julienne)
ichimi pepper (pinch)
quail egg (4)
salt (pinch)
black pepper (pinch)
red onion (50 gr)
cashew nuts (20 gr)
nikiri sauce (20 ml)

garnish
thinly sliced fried leek
sliced fried garlics
sliced fried lotus roots

shiso vinaigrette
light olive oil flavored with cinnamon, star anise, black & white pepper
rice vinegar
sesame oil
minced shiso leaf

  1. chop tuna into 5 mm cubes; mix with chopped shallots, finely chopped pickled ginger, ichimi pepper, 15 gr finely chopped cashews, one pinch of salt, black sesame, one pinch of black pepper, olive oil, wholegrain mustard and the soy sauce.
  2. on the plate, dress a bed of shiso cress leaves and nicely set the tuna on top; add shredded red onion and daikon julienne.
  3. sprinkle 5 gr of finely chopped cashew, ichimi pepper and nikiri sauce around the tuna
  4. (optional): rest a half shell of quail egg with yolk only on bed of wet salt; add yolk when serving, let guests mix egg into tuna
note: looking at another variation of above using shiso vinaigrette and garnish

Thursday, 17 September 2009

Cabbage, Anchovy & Chili Spaghetti

We were quite happy with this throw together pasta, perfect for an early autumn dindin.

spaghetti, preferably darker wheat, or kamut or spelt
young cabbage
red chili, 1 week-dry
garlic
tin of anchovies
chicken stock
EVOO
black pepper
  1. saute sliced garlic & minced chili, then melt the anchovies
  2. slice up cabbage as finely as possible with a mandolin, add to pan and let saute about 10 minutes
  3. add about half cup of chicken stock, stir from time to time until mostly but not all evaporated (don't want it too dry)
  4. cook pasta, drain, add to pan with a couple tblsp pasta water, stir so that pasta is well coated
  5. add EVOO, bit of ground black pepper and serve

Wednesday, 16 September 2009

San Daniele Ham & Apple Salad

Inspired by a recipe from NYC's Babbo restaurant.

best quality San Daniele prosciutto
assortment of good quality apples, preferably tart and crunchy
EVOO
1 tblsp cider vinegar
S&P
1 tsp lemon
bundle of chives
  1. cut apples into batons, squeeze lemon juice on apples to prevent coloring
  2. make vinaigrette, chop chives and toss with apple batons
  3. lay ham out on wooden platter, serve with a bowl of apple salad on the side