White Asparagus, Comte Cream

One of my favorite dishes in Paris recently, from Septime. I knew it from my first bite!  The star of the dish is the asparagus, so the other ingredients must play second fiddle.

white asparagus
comte cheese
single cream  or whole milk
maldon sea salt
ground black pepper
culatello
hazelnuts
sliced chives
home-made pickled mini white onions

1. pickle white onions days in advance, slice for this dish
2. melt cheese with a bit of cream, salt and pepper
3. steam asparagus, let cool slightly and slice into 1 1/2 inch pieces
4. roast some hazelnuts, break up a bit very roughly
5. to serve, arrange asparagus on a smaller plate, drizzle over a bit of cheese sauce (not too much), add a few hazelnuts, chives and a couple of sliced onions and some culatello on the side

Sea Urchin Pasta

A recipe from Eric Ripert, which Toby made already some time ago.

1/2 cup sea urchin roe
8 tbsp unsalted butter, softened
1 tbsp water
fine sea salt
espelette pepper
2 ounces spaghettini (ER calls for linguine)
sliced chives
grated parmesan
ground white pepper
1/2 lemon
caviar (optional)

1. for sea urchin sauce, puree roe in a blender, pass through sieve and return to blender to blend with butter
2. to finish sauce, bring water to boil in small saucepan, gradually whisk in sea urchin butter about 1 tbsp at a time; season with salt and espelette and keep warm
3. cook pasta until al dente, drain
4. put chives in a medium stainless steel bowl, add the warmed sauce and parmesan cheese and mix well; season with salt and white pepper and gently toss pasta with sauce
5. to serve, use a meat fork to twirl pasta and mound in the center of small bowls
6. drizzle remaining sauce over pasta, squeeze lemon juice over pasta and a bit of caviar on top
7. serve right away!

Paris Observations

Paris is alive and well as far as I can see, at least on the culinary front.  There is a lot of osmosis going on with London, New York and Tokyo. French chefs have been abroad and eager to return to share their experience. Meanwhile, the Japanese invasion continues! Maybe it's low rent or low interest rate loans, but 2014 boasted the most restaurant openings ever in the capital. Another observation is that the 11th still rules on the culinary map. Here are some recent finds, some spontaneous and others less so.

• Clamato (11th): Septime's little sister, what a gem. 
• Yard (11th): probably my second favourite of this trip; St John's meets Paris down deep in the 11th. Maybe because we were hungry, but the Cod, Lentils and Salsa Verde were dynamite!
• Buvette (9th): lovely Pigalle location, NY chef hits the bullseye with a bistro that is Frencher than French. Great casual vibe, gutsy food.
• Clown Bar (11th): bar-cum-bistro next door to the Cirque d'Hiver. Short menu, simple parings, great Morgon, slick and hip. Fooding's best bistro for 2015. 
• Pages (8th): upscale near l'Etoile, no star yet but I guarantee they will have one next time I go. Yet another example of a Japanese chef perfecting modern French cuisine with Japanese discipline and technique. Teshima-san is ex Passage 53, maybe one of the first French restaurants in Paris with a Japanese chef to get stars. There are many others, including Abri.
• Hai Kai (10th): a bit amateur but I get it! True farm to table, young chefs and service. Nice location on Canale St Martin. 
• Spring (2nd): this has been on my list for ages and while it didn't disappoint there's so much competition now!
• Juveniles (6th): more a wine bar with good food run by a Scotsman and his daughter. The chef is Romain Roudeau formerly from La Regalade. Vegetables come alive, but great beef cheek too.
• Penati al Baretto (11th): Ligurian food on rue Balzac. Didn't make it this time. Apparently nice Paccheri stuffed with diced scorpion and a spider crab sauce.
• Chez Aline (11th): more of a cafe in an old horsemeat butcher's shop, looks superb but sadly no time.
• Verre Vole (11th): a wine bar with emphasis on food, next time.
• El Cafe Bar (11th): a real hole in the wall, just the way I like it.

Linguine, Mussels & Pecorino

Another lovely seafood and cheese combo.

mussels
white wine
garlic
shallot
chili
pesto
mussel broth
parsley
pecorino

1. put garlic, wine, shallot and a little chili in a pan with mussels, place lid on pot and simmer until mussels open
2. remove mussels from shells, put aside
3. make a pesto and mix with some of the mussel broth
4. boil linguine, drain, mix with pesto
5. add mussels, pecorino and parsley

Jalapeno & Cilantro Dressing

A lovely dressing for oysters, cannot recall where I found but I suspect a southern US chef. Ah, literally just remembered. From Oyster Shack in Washington DC.

minced jalapeno
minced cilantro
champagne vinegar

1. combine all ingredients, vinegar to taste
2. serve at once

Mushroom on Toast & Burrata

I am not sure where I saw this, but have it scribbled on a paper. There are many variations of this, but very happy with this particular idea.

peasant bread
best wild mushrooms
garlic
lemon
burrata
EVOO
ground black pepper
malden sea salt

1. grill some slices of bread
2. saute mushrooms in butter, garlic and seasoning
3. top off with a little lemon
4. scatter on toast with burrata on side 
5. drizzle EVOO over everything

Tonight's Dinner

This entry is reserved only for special meals. My dear friend Toby Kwan made a special meal for me the other night in Singapore. There was lots of thought and care that went into this dinner, which is always an honest manifestation of a good friendship. Thanks Tobay Babay.

• Za'atar & coriander dip with pita crackers
• Mini chorizo madeleines
• Watercress veloute
• Capellini with sea urchin & parmesan butter, trout caviar
• Sous-vide beef rib, braised turnips, pickled mustard seed
• Wine-braised pear, black sesame sponge cake and miso
• Coconut flan & lemon oil
• Rasberry dust