Non-Chinese HK Picks

A few non-Chinese places that I like in Hong Kong, to be updated regularly.

• Mandarin Grill (modern European)*
• The Principal (modern European)*
• St Betty's (modern European)
• Domani (modern Italian)
• Brickhouse (authentic Mexican)
• Mesa 15 (Spanish tapas)
• Joel Rebouchon (modern French)***
• Amber (modern European)**
• L'Altro (modern Italian)*
• 22 Ships (Spanish tapas)
• Wagyu Kaiseki (Japanese)*
• 208 (Pizza)
• The Chinnery (Gastropub)
• Yardbird (modern Japanese)

Top Picks for Champagne

Hoping to update this periodically as I come across the irresistible bubbly.

• Vve Fourny & Fils (Vertus): Blanc de Blancs, Premier Cru. Minerally with a long and refreshing finish. The Champagne of choice at the 2011 Nobel Prize dinner!

Maria Nava's Risi

I had the pleasure of meeting Maria Nava Rondolino from Acquerello at the Hong Kong Wine & Dine festival. Since she is arguably Italy's rice queen, I asked how she best likes to eat the 7-year aged rice for which they are famous. The un-hulled rice, immediately after harvest, is stored in temperature-controlled silos and aged from at least 1 year and up to 7 years. This allows the starch in the grain to completely mature while improving its taste and ability to retain starch, absorbing more cooking liquids, giving it an excellent al dente texture. She said that in order to appreciate the taste and integrity of the rice, to follow th following recipe (alternatively she said combine the boiled rice in a bowl of gorgonzola, season, stir and eat).

1 cup of rice
butter
parmesan
lemon rind
maldon sea salt
ground black pepper

1. cook the rice as you would pasta, i.e., boil water adding salt only once it's boiling
2. add rice and cook for 13 minutes
3. put some butter, parmesan and lemon rind in a bowl
4. drain rice and put into bowl with other ingredients, stir
5. season with more salt and pepper if you like

Tonight's Dinner

A dinner into the wee hours with the Mendelsohns. I had fun with the retro aperitivo.

• mortadella, scamorza and olive on a toothpick
• baby squid & persillade crostini with aioli
• san daniele and apple salad
• ossobuco and risotto Milanese, gremolata
• mozzarella & fennel salad
• Michelle's prune & oloroso sherry ice cream

Foie Gras & Hazelnut Sauce

From Hong Kong's 3-star Italian restaurant, Otto e Mezzo (I believe the only 3-star Italian restaurant outside of Italy). Nice establishment and people although in my humble opinion the food certainly isn't 3-star. But this dish was fab. Talking to the amiable chef Bomba, he nicely spelled out the recipe for me, proudly proclaiming what a match in heaven foie gras and hazelnuts is, and I couldn't agree more.

foie gras du canard
light chicken stock
dark chicken stock
reduced marsala
balsamic vinegar
hazelnuts

1. toast hazelnuts, remove a few and chop finely
2. warm the stocks, combine with other ingredients except the balsamic
3. blitz and pass through a sieve
4. warm gently, add just a bit of balsamic vinegar to taste
5. the sauce shouldn't be like a puree nor should it be runny
6. pour sauce into small warmed bowl
7. sautee the foie gras, place in sauce, and sprinkle some chopped hazelnuts around 

Tonight's Dinner

Actually not tonight's but last week's dinner in London with Etroys, Maurins, Letondots and Anne-Emmanuelle. Casual and relaxed, including some current favorites.

• Carottes Rapees & Speck
• Celeri Remoulade & Smoked Salmon Filet
• Buffalo Mozarella & Marinated Fennel Salad
• Haricots Vert and Shredded Ham Hock Salad
• Boudin Blanc, Pommes Flambees & Mustardy Vinaigrette
• Jerusalem Artichoke Puree, Seared Scallops & Morcilla
• Cheese & Caramelized Onions
• Chocolate Cake, Orange Salad & Single Cream (from the ladies)

Dressed Castelfranco

Tonight I decided that castelfranco is probably my favorite radicchio. Somewhere between a traditional radicchio and crispy lettuce, it has just the right balance between sweet and bitter. Dinner at Domani tonight was special because they invited guest chef Jacob Kennedy from London's Boca di Lupo, one of my favorites. Andrea the chef introduced me to Jacob, I mentioned to him that I used to buy castelfranco from Gelupo, the store next door to his restaurant in London. Once the veal tartare and truffle was served, chef Jacob surprised me with a lovely castelfranco salad to accompany the suckling pig, grapes and chestnuts. This is the way he made it.

castelfranco leaves
best quality EVOO
best quality balsamic
toasted young peeled almonds (or hazelnuts)
maldon sea salt
ground pepper

1. make vinaigrette, toss with castelfranco
2. roughly chop almonds, sprinkle over salad