Grilled Steak & Salsa Verde

Pops, let's do this one.........

8 fillet steaks

8 streaks of pancetta

l large bunch of thyme

1 clove of garlic

1 anchovy fillet

zest of 1 lemon

10 tblsp EVOO

8 portobello mushrooms

S&P

salsa verde

2 cloves garlic

handful of capers

handful of cornichons

6 anchovy fillets

2 large handfuls of parsley

1 handful of basil

1 handful of mint

1 tblsp maille mustard

3 tblsp red wine vinegar

8 tblsp EVOO

S&P

1. tie up stalk end of thyme, place leafy end in a pestle and mortar and give it a good bash (this removes the tasty leaves and leaves you with what looks like a mini broom)
2. add garlic, lemon zest, anchovy fillet to the mortar; bash to a paste and stir in EVOO
3. fillet steaks should be 1 inch thick, at least; wrap bacon around each steak and secure loosely with string
4. peel mushroom skins off (helps them absorb marinade); brush steaks and mushrooms with marinade, keeping the rest for the cooking
5. season meat on both sides with S&P, place on grill with mushrooms
6. turn every minute and brush each time with the thyme brush; the mushrooms will be cooked after about 6 minutes
7. once beef cooked to your liking, remove string, divide steaks between 8 warmed plates with mushrooms, allow to rest for 2 minutes and put a big dollop of salsa verde over the top

Tortellini Bolognese in Brodo

Wanted to make note of this one for the broth. The first time I use beef shin, combined with an old hen, simmered for 12 hours. Ideally capon could be used, but sets you back a pretty penny. The parcel fillings are "typical" Bolognese in that there is a combination of poultry and pork but more importantly the requisite mortadella. Although no nona will have the same recipe, naturally!

pork loin

turkey breast

mortadella

prosciutto

parmesan

nutmeg

butter

brodo

capon, or old hen

beef shin, half severed to expose marrow

bay leaf

handful of parsley

S&P

1. make tortellini using above filling, preferably with Italian eggs (or eggs that have an orange yolk)
2. when broth is done, season to taste with S&P
3. gently boil tortellini in salt water until nearly done, finish off in the broth by removing with a slotted spoon
4. serve with parmesan and drizzle of best quality EVOO and a bit more pepper, if you like

Rosemary Truffle Honey

Contemplating the week's work over a glass of Otonal at my local Galicia, I conjured up this mixture, which actually came out quite nicely. Probably better with hard cheese although went down a treat with the bosina.

acacia honey (Seggiano has a nice one)

fresh rosemary

white truffle oil (don't bother with black)

1. in a ramekin, pour 5-6 tblsp of honey
2. add a half tsp of finely minced rosemary needles
3. add a quarter tsp (or more if desired) truffle oil
4. mix all ingredients and let seep a few hours before using

Tonight's Dinner

A lovely cold winter night's Italian menu for the Letondots and Maurins. I was happy with the 12 hour tortellini broth made from an old hen and quality beef shin. Wrapping apples in San Daniele a good way forward. Also never forget when buying osso buco to lasso in the remaining shin to use in broth for the risotto Milanese. Particularly fond of this osso buco, an old River Cafe recipe that does away with the distracting tomatoes and makes use of anchovies to give the dish an added roundedness. Pleasant surprise was the rosemary-truffle honey.

bresaola bombs

san daniel wraps

home-made tortellini in brodo

osso buco bianco & risotto Milanese

frisee, tarragon, mint, dill salad

bosina & rosemary-truffle honey

Princi Salt Beef Salad

I've been having this at Princi's London outpost on Wardour Street. I asked them if this was a typical Milanese dish and apparently it is not. Whatever the origin, it's a nice way to lighten up a serving of salt beef. I've not put exact measurements, but each of the ingredients have approximately the same proportion.

salt beef, cut into quarter to half-inch cubes

dalleggio, cut into cubes same size as beef

pitted green olives, chopped

tiny capers, whole

cornichons, chopped

peas, boiled and cooled

artichokes in oil (without seasoning)

pickled mixed mushrooms (saw some small Japanese mushrooms)

best quality, sweet cherry tomatoes, quartered

EVOO, to taste

balsamic vinegar, just a couple drops

S&P

1. mix all together
2. dress with EVOO and vinegar, seasoning

Chipolatas & Mustard Mayo

Maybe because I was starving, but these hit the spot hard. I asked the kiwi cook at The Electric what he did, and I think this is what he said.

small best quality chipolatas links

worcestershire sauce

butter

home-made mayo & grain mustard mixed

1. saute sausages in pan
2. once they are browning, add a few tblsp of worcestershire sauce, then butter to taste to make a nice emulsified sauce
3. pour the whole lot into a small plate, place a small ramekin of the mustard mayo on the same plate

Tuna Tartare & Wasabi Ice Cream

I think this was one of the better dishes at last night's annual xmas dinner (see Bistro Ari & David Christmas Menus post). Mix at the table, just like steak tartare in a restaurant! I've tried many ways and must say that Nobu's recommendation to add just a bit of mashed garlic makes all the difference in perking up the otherwise blandish raw tuna. Could add some lime rind to the tartare, if you wish.

tuna

best quality EVOO

maldon sea salt

soy sauce

red chile, minced

coriander leaves, chopped

chives, chopped

shallots, minced

garlic, mashed with salt

wasabi ice cream

2 egg yolks

1 tsp sugar

250 ml creme fraiche

10 ml whole milk

S&P

1 tsp natural wasabi powder

1. make wasabi ice cream by first boiling milk and cream, season with S&P; meanwhile beat egg and sugar until it becomes white and doubles; slowly add hot milk and cream to egg mixture, then the wasabi, while mixing and let cool; put in ice cream maker; take out from freezer 10 minutes before serving so that ice cream softens a little.
2. cut tuna into small cubes, put in freezer 10 minutes before use
3. mix pureed garlic with EVOO
4. place tuna in a bowl, set on ice in another bowl, and add all condiments to taste; stir thoroughly
5. fill a glass with 2-3 spoonfuls of tuna, followed by a spoonful of ice cream and serve (ice cream should not be runny)